Normal Route

The route starts on the North side of the mountain relative to the Toni Demetz Hut. A chimney defines the start. Climbing right of the chimney, four pitches of easy 5th class or UIAA III+(~5.4) surmount the initial wall, and lead to a large boulder and scree covered ramp leading up and climber's left. The ramp is ~ 300 feet of roped scrambing, normally done climbing in coils, UIAA Gr. I & II. The route now heads into the Daumanscharte, or notch between the main peak and the Thumb for 2 leads. Cemented anchors. The route becomes steeper with plentiful holds and great exposure. It skirts the "Zeigefinger" or index finger into a notch, from which 2 more leads arrive on the "Mittefinger," or middle finger summit.

The start is reached either by a long and steep trudge from the Sella Pass Sassalungo lift station, or by riding the Gondolbahn to Langkofelscharte. Pass the Toni Demetz refuge and contour around the mountain to the queue waiting for the route.
To descend, abseil the route, downclimbing the slabby section.

All protection is fixed; cemented ring bolt anchors in place. Take slings and quickdraws and a light Alpine rack