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Routes in 08E - Elephant's Head Area
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Black Watch, The M5 R |
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Cloak and Dagger WI6 |
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Elephant's head gully WI3 |
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I Have a Dream (or was it a Nightmare?) T WI6- M6-7 |
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Intelligence Bypass WI3 |
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Origins of Intelligence in Children WI4-5 |
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Prow, The T WI5 |
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Ragnarock WI4-5 M4 |
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Rock Candy T WI4 M4 PG13 |
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Sargent-Severin WI3+ |
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Scotch and Water WI5- X |
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Surf N' Turf WI5- M4 R |
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Tall Tails WI5- PG13 |
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Watership Down WI3-4 |
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| Type: | Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chet Callahan, Bob Olsen and Chuck Bond |
| Page Views: | 6,645 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Marc-Antoine Larocque on Sep 17, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 |
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Description
Pitch 1: Build an anchor in the initial steep bulge of ice (Using 60m ropes, starting at the anchor bolts on the buttress will not get you past the rap bolts at the top of P1). Climb straight up on easy ice (200 feet of WI 2) past the rappel bolts on the right wall and belay from screws near the top of the gully.
Pitch 2: Climb the waterfall (crux: 15 feet of WI 3-/+), then climb the steeper section in the groove (35 feet of WI 2) and create a belay station on a tree. In some years the initial column of this pitch comes in steep on the left side and can give about 30 feet of WI4 climbing.
Descent: Rappel the route using the belays stations. Double ropes.
Location
Location: Smugglers notch is located on route 108 (partly closed in winter). It's possible the get there from north or south, although faster from the south (Stowe).
Parking: Get at the end of the road and park on the side.
Approach: (From south) Hike on the road for about 20 minutes until you can see the prominent elephant's head buttress. Head toward the base for about 100 feet in the snow.
Google maps
Parking: Get at the end of the road and park on the side.
Approach: (From south) Hike on the road for about 20 minutes until you can see the prominent elephant's head buttress. Head toward the base for about 100 feet in the snow.
Google maps
Photos
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