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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
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Abraxsis T WI5 M6 |
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Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4 |
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Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+ |
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Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Conditional Love WI5-6 M5 R |
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Crazy Train T WI5 |
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Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5- |
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Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2 |
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Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 M2 |
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Duncan Did it First T M5 |
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Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+ Mod. Snow |
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Field's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI5 M6+ |
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Flying Dutchman, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2-3 M2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Give'r the Berries T M5+ |
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Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5 Steep Snow |
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Joe's Solo WI3+ M3 |
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Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 Easy Snow |
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Lamb's Slide T AI1 Easy Snow |
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Left of Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3 |
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North Chimney T M4 |
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North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 |
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Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 M3 Mod. Snow |
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Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R |
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Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R |
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South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R |
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Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Possibly Rob Smith and Ben Collett, September 2014 |
| Page Views: | 1,642 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Collett on Sep 12, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a good route to do when early season over-enthusiasm gets the best of you. You get to work out the legs on some steep snow and moderate mixed climbing until the last 300 feet where things get a bit more challenging.
Climb Lamb's Slide past Zumie's Thumb, and head up the gully to the left of the thumb. If your timing is right, you'll find some steep neve and some easy mixed climbing. At the top of the snow, there is a rock pillar with chimney systems on both sides. Climb into the left chimney system and follow it loosely for 180 feet to a nice belay on its left side below a huge chockstone. Get back in the chimney system, and take it to the top past a chockstone tunnel and a hard sequence of moves getting into a squeeze chimney.
Climb Lamb's Slide past Zumie's Thumb, and head up the gully to the left of the thumb. If your timing is right, you'll find some steep neve and some easy mixed climbing. At the top of the snow, there is a rock pillar with chimney systems on both sides. Climb into the left chimney system and follow it loosely for 180 feet to a nice belay on its left side below a huge chockstone. Get back in the chimney system, and take it to the top past a chockstone tunnel and a hard sequence of moves getting into a squeeze chimney.
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