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Devoid
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British X
Avg: 3.4 from 8
votes
| Type: | Trad, 370 ft (112 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Steve Grossman and Fig Fiola, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 4,218 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Sep 4, 2014 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Read this Access Note!
Details
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
Devoid is an amazing route that lies within the wild chimneys between Chey Desa Tsay and Rockfellow Dome. It is a tremendously adventurous line with demanding mental cruxes, but the experience of this classic is truly magnificent. The X rating is for pitch 1 - make absolutely sure you are a solid chimney climber as there is no room for error.
The directions below assume you are facing Chey Desa Tsay at the start.
Pitch 1 (5.8 X, 155'): From the base, chimney up and right about 90' to a bolt. Clip it and continue up about 40' to a second bolt. The anchor is about 20' higher.
Pitch 2 (5.10 R, 85'): This pitch has wide stemming and chimney climbing between Rockfellow and Chey Desa Tsay. On the FA Steve Grossman led a portion of this pitch with foot-shoulder technique!
Traverse directly right 15', then work up about 30' to a crack on the CDT side. Protect, turn around, and make a big committing move on the Rockfellow face. From here climb up and left 40' to two bolts. We belayed here. The bolts are 10' apart so it is necessary to use a self-equalizing anchor.
Pitch 3: (5.10 PG13/R, 110'): Move back on to Chey Desa Tsay (jaw-dropping exposure) and up on to an angled ledge. Tricky face climbing leads up to a large ledge. From here continue up and left to a point just below the summit and belay.
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