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> Cranberry Meadows
Yellow Brick Road
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 11
votes
Routes in Cranberry Meadows
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Awning, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ballpark Boulder T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Because It's There T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bird Nest T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Definite Lee S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Feelers Protected T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hillbilly Braille T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Latvian Gambit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Protect the Peelers T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Shark Fin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Uppity Buddha S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yawning, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yellow Brick Road S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 45 ft (14 m), Grade V |
| FA: | Greg Barrett and Josh Lightman |
| Page Views: | 1,397 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Josh30 on Sep 1, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Braden Batsford, John Serjeantson |
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Description
A balancey start leads you up the initial slab. Cut hard left and work your way up fun broken blocks. Undercling a bulge and work right to use a rail above and mantle to the ledge. Get past the crux using a high right foot and search for the hidden right hand hold. Keep moving right and finish up on a nice ledge for clipping the anchors. Rappel and repeat. PS if preparing this route for top rope make sure to use directionals for the second to prevent a pendulum.
Protection
6 bolts, Fixed anchor at the top with rappel ring. Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended. Look for the stick with tape on it.
The top anchor for this route is located a ways to the right of the beginning. This means that it requires some effort to clean the draws while on rappel. The simplest way is to have somebody clean them while seconding.
If you are top roping, it is suggested that you leave the second to last draw clipped. This while keep the climber from facing a swing during the first half of the climb.
The top anchor for this route is located a ways to the right of the beginning. This means that it requires some effort to clean the draws while on rappel. The simplest way is to have somebody clean them while seconding.
If you are top roping, it is suggested that you leave the second to last draw clipped. This while keep the climber from facing a swing during the first half of the climb.
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