Turn the Other Cheek
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 95 ft (29 m) |
FA: | Dunbar Carpenter, Gokul Gopal, Doug Hemken |
Page Views: | 844 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Doug Hemken on Sep 1, 2014 |
Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Despite the ugly looking moss, this line has some really nice moves, and just enough moss has rubbed off to reveal the crucial holds.
Start from either the left or the right, move up to the bottom of the groove - nice rail on the left. Work up into the dihedral. Either slab & mantel, or stem up to bomber hand jams. Shift left onto easy ledges. Head up just right of the pine tree to the steep finger crack. Find the jugs and head straight up to a good ledge.
On lead, we went left here and scrambled around to the summit. On TR, continue straight up: the final headwall is 5.9/5.10-ish, and could use a bolt for protection.
Start from either the left or the right, move up to the bottom of the groove - nice rail on the left. Work up into the dihedral. Either slab & mantel, or stem up to bomber hand jams. Shift left onto easy ledges. Head up just right of the pine tree to the steep finger crack. Find the jugs and head straight up to a good ledge.
On lead, we went left here and scrambled around to the summit. On TR, continue straight up: the final headwall is 5.9/5.10-ish, and could use a bolt for protection.
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