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Holzkeilriss (wooden-wedge-crack)
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Räuberfelsen
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Holzkeilriss (wooden-wedge-crack) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 682 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Matthias Lang on Aug 31, 2014 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath |
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Description
Mantel on a block then climb up the dihedral. Traverse out on the roof and clip the huge piton (that at least has been upgraded from wood to metal). Then follow the crack to an anchor behind the lip.
Protection
There are a couple of bolts on this route, but most people will want to bring a set of small to medium cams to protect the runouts in between.
The wooden wedge has been upgraded to a heavy metal piton. There is some rust on it and I couldn't tell how good it really is, especially the ring wich seems rusted to the piton, so I backed it up with a cam.
For an extra challenge one could easily lead this on gear alone as the rock is solid and provides ample opportunities for protection. This won't really make it much harder, as the only strenous piece to place will be the one I placed anyways to back up the piton.
The wooden wedge has been upgraded to a heavy metal piton. There is some rust on it and I couldn't tell how good it really is, especially the ring wich seems rusted to the piton, so I backed it up with a cam.
For an extra challenge one could easily lead this on gear alone as the rock is solid and provides ample opportunities for protection. This won't really make it much harder, as the only strenous piece to place will be the one I placed anyways to back up the piton.
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