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Bowling Alley (aka Regular Route)
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 2.7 from 14
votes
Routes in South Face
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Pryoclastic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cobbles 101 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bowling Alley (aka Regular Route) S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Sport, 430 ft (130 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Brenden Sullivan, Jim Yoder, ground-up |
| Page Views: | 5,759 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Brenden Sullivan on Aug 11, 2014 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Access to Pinto Rock is OPEN!!! Mmmm cobbles...
Details
Pinto Rock is located in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest.
For up to date access alerts and road conditions visit: fs.usda.gov/alerts/giffordp…
For up to date access alerts and road conditions visit: fs.usda.gov/alerts/giffordp…
Description
From the pull out, follow the trail up to the lowest toe of the formation. Then, take a left and skirt around the rock about 75ft until you arrive in a narrow gully. Due to rock fall, try not to belay or leave packs directly in the mouth of the gully.
P1: 5.2 - Climb up the gully to the first bolt about 25 feet up. Continue up another 20ft to the next bolt and bare right up the gully to a belay in a saddle overlooking the east face. This is a 40m pitch. 4 or 5 bolts and slings to chain anchors.
P2: 5.6 - Sling a nice cantaloupe off the belay and climb directly up the vertical groove over large watermelons , traverse camel hump back onto "Regular Route". 11 bolts to chains under a large bench.
P3: 5.4 - Climb up to a bolt and cut left across the groovy ledge and up a knobby ramp. Sling a few rocks and clip 3 bolts to chain anchors in basalt band.
P4: 5.6 - The summit pitch. Climb through the band of basalt to a chimney, sling a cobble after second bolt then leftward up a low angle chute to the summit. 5 clips. Don't forget to sign the summit register!
Descent: From the summit, rappel off the North end of the East face from an anchor set up near a tree. Make two rappels with a 60m rope or make one double-rope rappel to the ground.
NOTE: Chains are for belay and emergency exit only. Rappelling these routes can be dangerous! Be highly aware of swing potential and possibly taking your hands off the rope and climbing a bit to anchors, auto-block recommended. Most rappels are total rope-stretchers so TIE KNOTS or meet your doom!
P1: 5.2 - Climb up the gully to the first bolt about 25 feet up. Continue up another 20ft to the next bolt and bare right up the gully to a belay in a saddle overlooking the east face. This is a 40m pitch. 4 or 5 bolts and slings to chain anchors.
P2: 5.6 - Sling a nice cantaloupe off the belay and climb directly up the vertical groove over large watermelons , traverse camel hump back onto "Regular Route". 11 bolts to chains under a large bench.
P3: 5.4 - Climb up to a bolt and cut left across the groovy ledge and up a knobby ramp. Sling a few rocks and clip 3 bolts to chain anchors in basalt band.
P4: 5.6 - The summit pitch. Climb through the band of basalt to a chimney, sling a cobble after second bolt then leftward up a low angle chute to the summit. 5 clips. Don't forget to sign the summit register!
Descent: From the summit, rappel off the North end of the East face from an anchor set up near a tree. Make two rappels with a 60m rope or make one double-rope rappel to the ground.
NOTE: Chains are for belay and emergency exit only. Rappelling these routes can be dangerous! Be highly aware of swing potential and possibly taking your hands off the rope and climbing a bit to anchors, auto-block recommended. Most rappels are total rope-stretchers so TIE KNOTS or meet your doom!
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