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Bomb Track
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.4 from 8 votes
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Brian Loth & Matt Merton |
Page Views: | 1,165 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Boissal . on Aug 10, 2014 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
An easier start to bypass the heinous thin crux of Alma and still enjoy the upper pods? An independent traversing odyssey through an unlikely line of pockets begging to be climbed? Regardless of how you look at it, Bomb Track is a worthy adventure linking intriguing features into a fun varied pitch.
Enter the Bomb Track by pulling into a right facing dihedral lined with pockets. Crimp, jam, undercling, arm bar your way to the 3rd bolt then bust a hard left, traversing along more pockets to reach the base of the first shell hole. Tackle the first technical crux, figuring out an elaborate sequence to enter this hole and meet with Alma B. Clipping that 6th bolt (4th of Alma) with a runner will help control rope drag but add a bit of intimidation to the mix...
Crawl into the next smaller pod by milking amazing pockets and take a nap in there. Once you feel refreshed devise a way to extricate yourself from the pod, go through a tough bulge and slab your way to a giant undercling (and an optional great rest in a crack). Bust left on the slab, executing a thin crux to reach excellent pockets (this may be much harder for shorter climbers and involve some serious friction). A short insecure lieback leads to huge holes in a roof and a final pull over the lip to the chains.
I doubt you could clean this one without taking a monster swing into one of the planks. Better have someone ready to second and take monster swing into thin air if they botch the traversing sequences.
Enter the Bomb Track by pulling into a right facing dihedral lined with pockets. Crimp, jam, undercling, arm bar your way to the 3rd bolt then bust a hard left, traversing along more pockets to reach the base of the first shell hole. Tackle the first technical crux, figuring out an elaborate sequence to enter this hole and meet with Alma B. Clipping that 6th bolt (4th of Alma) with a runner will help control rope drag but add a bit of intimidation to the mix...
Crawl into the next smaller pod by milking amazing pockets and take a nap in there. Once you feel refreshed devise a way to extricate yourself from the pod, go through a tough bulge and slab your way to a giant undercling (and an optional great rest in a crack). Bust left on the slab, executing a thin crux to reach excellent pockets (this may be much harder for shorter climbers and involve some serious friction). A short insecure lieback leads to huge holes in a roof and a final pull over the lip to the chains.
I doubt you could clean this one without taking a monster swing into one of the planks. Better have someone ready to second and take monster swing into thin air if they botch the traversing sequences.
Location
Bomb Track starts to the right of a small cave 15' to right of Alma B and follows an obvious weakness littered with big pockets, traversing left to merge with Alma. The next route to the right is the obvious The Big Smile
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