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Caveman Odyssey
5.10,
Trad, Alpine, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 11
votes
FA: D. Stireman & A. Mollard, 7/2014
Utah
> S Central Utah
> Jungle, on the…
> Pangaea
The Journey
Yet another classic line spotted by Roy, Caveman Odyssey climbs a clean crack rising out of an improbable hallway formed by a tower that didn't quite finish falling over.
Attack this splitter by stemming off the back wall of the tower to bypass a really thin hard section. This will probably go without dabbing by someone motivated to yard on tiny crimps with bad feet but Drew wisely decided to keep the grade under 11+.
Once through the start, crank through an angry section of bulging fingers/thin hands with poor feet before reaching mellower ground. Hand jams and stems will let you rise out of the bowels of the Tower of Darkness (dun dun dun) and into the light.
Don't get carried away and miss the anchor to your right though, you'd end up surrounded with death blocks. So many of them came down during the FA that the route is about 2' shorter than when we found it. It is now clean and classic. Get after it!
Where It Begins
The Essentials
Take a set of nuts and cams from the tiniest micro to a #2 (BD) with doubles from red C3 to .75. As usual in Pangea, the purple C3 is mandatory. Love it or face the consequences.
Lower off a bolted anchor.
[Hide Photo] Drew rising from the Dark Tower on the FA of Caveman Odyssey
Red Rock, NV
Salt Lake City