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The Dihedral Route

5.10+, Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.4 from 14 votes
FA: Galen Rowell, Vern Clevenger et. al. 1974
California > High Sierra > 02 - The Sawtoo… > Juggernaut

Description

This route climbs the main left facing corner feature up the middle of Juggernaut’s North Face.
P1: Tunnel under the big block. Climb the steep twin cracks on the right headwall. 5.10
P2: Continue up the corner.
P3: Keep to the right most of the corners. Stem and jam up and right to a stance. 5.10
P4: Several options take you to the left side of the big ledge.
P5: There are three options to the top.
Option A: Climb the easy crack straight up from the left side of the ledge. 5.8
Option B: Start up the easy crack on the left side of the ledge, then move right up a splitter finger crack. 5.10-
Option C: From the right side of the ledge, climb up broken cracks, then traverse left up the splitter and then right up the finger crack to the top. This is the most sustained option. Manage rope drag. 5.10-

Location

This route climbs the main dihedral on the center of the North Face.

The descent is a quick walk-off. Head straight back to the south, then traverse west towards the obvious sandy couloir, which will wrap you back around to the base.

Protection

Doubles 1 TCU-#2 Camalot
Single 0, #3 Camalot, #4 Camalot, wires

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The first pitch of The Dihedral Route.
[Hide Photo] The first pitch of The Dihedral Route.
Pitch 3 of The Dihedral Route
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3 of The Dihedral Route
Topo for Dihedral Route
[Hide Photo] Topo for Dihedral Route
Dana leads that last 5 fun pitch.
[Hide Photo] Dana leads that last 5 fun pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Throckmorton
Salt lake City Utah
 
[Hide Comment] First and third pitches are real quality, and worth the hike out there! We had a double rack from BD .2-3 with extra in the Totem yellow size which was nice for the first pitch. A 4 would have been nice to have for the wider 5.8 slot. We combined what is pitch 3/4 in this topo which caused some major rope drag, but can be done with smarter double length sling use. Jul 14, 2020
Vicki Schwantes
Sacramento, CA
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Also did this in 4 pitches:
P1 - Tunnel through and climb the excellent cracks (10+) for 100 feet until a small ledge where you move left into the dirty corner, 50 more feet to a small ledge to belay.
P2 - Carry on up the 5.9 corner (beware of loose rock, as of July 25, 2020 a very loose block that could easily be knocked on the belay is just to the left of the climbing) and stop just below the right arching 5.10 finger crack.
P3 - 5.10 fingers, then up and around the diagonal roof, move right to the corner and take it all the way to the big ledge, long pitch.
P4 - Pick your adventure, the 5.8 finish was fun! Jul 27, 2020
Brayden L
[Hide Comment] Make sure to do the .10- finish that shoots out right from the 5.8 crack on P5. Mouth watering finger locks on the outstanding position of the upper shield make for a real cherry on top of an already outstanding route. Jul 9, 2022