Type: Sport, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: Mike Witt & Scott Ayers (1996)
Page Views: 1,290 total · 10/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Jul 20, 2014
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Warning Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Chimney from the narrow slot to obtain the detached outcropping or simply walk around to start ten feet above. Commit to the the face, minding the gap, to reach the first bolt. Tenuous face climbing leads into a right-facing weakness, which is followed by a brief section of easier climbing. Smear on down-turned crystals while clawing for edges to overcome the second crux. Upon reaching a grungy looking pillar trend right, clipping two bolts, before finishing up the arete.

Chapalot is recommended for those who enjoy thin face. The rock prior to the arete is absolutely stellar; the rock on the arete is actually better than it appears. The bottom half of this route is sustained and delicate while the upper half has nice exposure.

Upon reaching the chains one can probably continue up by working behind the large pillar that Fort Stress ascends. From here one can join numerous other routes.

Location Suggest change

Upon reaching the Fortress, hike down the left (southeast) side until a narrow slot appears. Hike through this passageway. At the far end of the passageway are two sport routes with high first bolts. Alcazar is the left; Chapalot is the right.

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts to a chain anchor.

One can belay from either the shaded passageway or use a belay bolt on the detached outcropping 10 feet above the base.

Photos

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