Scuffle and Dust Cough
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | CC, RR ('80) |
Page Views: | 1,160 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Andy Bennett on Jul 7, 2014 |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Some lichen, choss, and a heady start detract from the quality of this climb. The climbing in the dihedral is pretty dang fun, though. Modern gear softens the sting on this climb, negating the need for the "3 sets of brass nuts and crack-n-ups" mentioned in the guidebook. RPs are still really handy, though.
Tiptoe up and over the pile of precariously-wedged blocks that mark the beginning of this route. (Yes, apparently they're solid). Work your way into the corner, passing the start of the Salty Dogs line. Here, all of your Mount Lemmon zero-error-tolerance gear placing experience will come in real handy. Commit to the corner, gain the slab, and confront your next challenge. A fall while gaining the slab could be fairly bad--make sure you have your belayer's full attention. The main corner eventually meets a jumbled series of cracks and buttresses--here you can set up a belay and bring up your second, or jump left to the Salty Dogs anchors. One could also continue to the top with a larger rack... P2: Either climb out the low-angle corner to the right, or take on the overhanging buttresses to the top. Walk of/rap one of the newer lines to the left.
It is also possible to start this climb by starting off of a small ledge to the right of the main ledge (spicy 4th class move). We didn't do this line, but it looks easier and potentially safer.
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