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> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
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> Washington Pass
> Liberty Bell Group
> Lexington Tower
North Face
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2 from 108
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Routes in Lexington Tower
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East Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tooth and Claw T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Tim Kelley, Dick McGowan 1954 |
| Page Views: | 6,865 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Nash on Jul 6, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
P1: Crux of the route is right off the ground in an awkward rightward trending handcrack. Once through it, the climbing eases. Pick you way up the easiest options to a large belay block slung with tat and a rap anchor (visible from the base of the climb). 5.7 120'
P2: Initially climb a few moves right of the belay, then head back left up and over some more blocky (and mossy) terrain. Meander your way back and forth climbing the path of least resistance, eventually trending farther right. Belay at the notch between the true summit and the west summit (there is a rap anchor here as well). 5.7 80'
P3: If you are comfortable, unrope for this pitch and scramble to the true summit along the ridge crest. There may be one 5.easy move on it, but it's mostly 4th class. If you choose to stay roped, leave the gear in place in order to "re-lead" the pitch on the descent, as you cannot rap a traverse.
P2: Initially climb a few moves right of the belay, then head back left up and over some more blocky (and mossy) terrain. Meander your way back and forth climbing the path of least resistance, eventually trending farther right. Belay at the notch between the true summit and the west summit (there is a rap anchor here as well). 5.7 80'
P3: If you are comfortable, unrope for this pitch and scramble to the true summit along the ridge crest. There may be one 5.easy move on it, but it's mostly 4th class. If you choose to stay roped, leave the gear in place in order to "re-lead" the pitch on the descent, as you cannot rap a traverse.
Location
Approach from Blue Lake TH as for Liberty Bell/Concord Tower, but trend left and ascend the gully between Lexington and Concord Towers. Route should be pretty obvious from here.
The other approach is to climb up and over Concord Tower from the north, then rap into the Concord-Lexington Notch on Concord's south face. This is part of the Liberty Group Traverse (all 5 spires in one day), or a good option of the routes over on Liberty Bell are congested.
The other approach is to climb up and over Concord Tower from the north, then rap into the Concord-Lexington Notch on Concord's south face. This is part of the Liberty Group Traverse (all 5 spires in one day), or a good option of the routes over on Liberty Bell are congested.
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