Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Cheese Pit Blues

5.10b, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
FA: Steve Garvey, Mark Yerkes
Alaska > Anchorage & S C… > Hatcher Pass > Archangel Valle… > Catch The Wave

Description

This route needs traffic. If you can get over the loose crumbles and enjoy the climbing, you're in five star terrain. Climb lay back and splitter hands to a tough move to a good rest. Work your way through a thin balancy crux to a piton, pull a steeper move to the wide upper section. Snake your way into the squeeze chimney, get a good rest. and Pull your way through the offwidth using a large flake. Save some gear for the top and climb the easier 5.8 or 5.9 crack with good face holds.

Location

This route is above "Slabtreck" and third climb to right from Rebirth. Hike up the gully, climb a short mossy section of slab, and get to a good ledge, drop your pack, rack up. scramble up a little higher and back left over the exposed ledges above the gully. There is potential for some gear at the belay ledge.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches, and bigger gear wouldn't go unused, one rusty pin. Three bolt anchor (one new stainless bolt)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sam leading up awesome granite with the squeeze/offwidth looming above.
[Hide Photo] Sam leading up awesome granite with the squeeze/offwidth looming above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Todd Fisher
Anchorage, AK
 
[Hide Comment] Good fun! Excellent lieback dihedral to start into some sporty face moves and then a squeeze chimney/offwidth to top it off! A little crumble,but not bad. A big flake inside the chimney offers good holds making this obstacle not so bad. Jun 28, 2016