PRINT: Rock Climb Green Crack, City of Rocks

Green Crack

5.11a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 30 votes
FA: Floyd McCalister 2013
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Upper Breadloaves - East

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

The crux is bolt protected and found right off the ledge where the route departs the Lost Pioneers (10a) corner at 3/4's height. This climb is worth doing on a hot day, but the short pitch and necessity to climb Lost Pioneers lowers its quality rating.

Location

This route is the jagged finger crack that leaves the corner and diagonals out left on the steep face from Lost Pioneers (10a). Climb Lost Pioneers (10a) about 3/4's of its length and mantle onto the small ledge beneath the patch of large feldspar crystal. Easiest to rap with a 70, but a 60 could work with some downclimbing.

Protection

Standard trad rack. 2 bolts protect the steep moves through the large feldspar crystals off the ledge where the route departs Lost Pioneers (10a). Small nuts are helpful for protecting the jagged finger crack on the face. Bolt anchor on the far left side of the flat "block" ledge it finishes on.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo, showing Lost Pioneers and Green Crack variation

Jeff leading the steep face of Green Crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Past User

5.10d

I spied this line from the road and because it wasn't in the guidebook or posted, my friend and I thought were were in for a ground up traditional F.A. We even scoped the route with binoculars and somehow missed the two bolts and upper anchor! Nice work camouflaging those with paint! It would have went without the bolts, but it would have been a R rating. Perhaps this is a Shilling route... who knows? We just added our own name (Savage Attack!), but I'll gladly correct to credit the F.A. A few more bolts up the steep hueco'd north face would make a most excellent 2nd summit pitch and greatly add to the routes appeal- especially on those hot summer days! Jun 30, 2014

JF1
Idaho

FA Earl Mcalister Jul 14, 2014

abe r
Boise, ID

very fun and sweet position! Leading it with Lost pioneers in one pitch is the obvious linkup but be very mindful of your gear placements on LP to do so. Couple well placed bolts protect the crimpy start which leads to a nice finger crack. Fun! May 21, 2018

Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA

5.10c/d

This is a very good route and deserves more traffic. It easily links with the first half of Lost Pioneers. Also it is definitely not 5.11 climbing for COR. Jul 6, 2022

Doug Smith
Almo, ID

This is a great pitch in a very exposed setting.the grainy rock has cleaned up quite well. Get on this one. Make sure your belayer is on the spot when clipping the bolts. A long fall onto the ledge could produce ankle injuries Jul 7, 2022