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5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.2 from 11
votes
Routes in E. Mount Broderick
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Runaway Train T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ |
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Thugz Mansion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
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Unemployment Line T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Voodoo Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | FA: 1982 - Alen Bartlett, Jim May, Steve Gerbeding FFA: 2014 - Shaun Reed, Scotty Nelson |
| Page Views: | 4,798 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Shaun Reed on Jun 26, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Access Issue: Closure includes the entire southeast face of Mt. Broderick opposite Liberty Capuntil July 15, 201.
Details
The following areas are identified as cliffs closed to visitor use, including climbing activities, beginning March 1, 2018 and remaining in effect until July 15, 2018, or until further notice:
Mt. Broderick – West of Liberty Cap. Closure includes the entire southeast face of Mt. Broderick opposite Liberty Cap.
Mt. Broderick – West of Liberty Cap. Closure includes the entire southeast face of Mt. Broderick opposite Liberty Cap.
Description
The meat of the route is a 450' aesthetic flake system on the otherwise blank right side South Face. The grades listed below are my best guess and are not meant to sandbag anyone. I believe these are the honest grades that consensus will reach as the route sees more traffic.
Pitch 1 - 5.10 - 160 feet
Start up a thin dihedral with a bush at the start, then out or around a small A-frame roof to another dihedral with thin to good fingers to a 2 bolt belay (only bolted belay on the climb).
Pitch 2 - 5.11+, 150 feet - 4 bolts
Traverse up and right to a bolt then continues right to a crumbly corner (5.7), then to a good ledge and three bolts (crux) traversing to the right to a ledge at the base of a dihedral. Belay takes hand-size gear.
Pitch 3 - 5.11+, 70 feet
Head straight up the dihedral to the start of the flake system, then undercling to the left into a radical sustained undercling fingerlock traverse to a ledge with a tree. Belay takes hand-size gear and a #4 BD.
Pitch 4 - 5.11+, 90 feet
Undercling/jam out the awkward flake to pumpy hand jams then powerful liebacking passed 4 fixed nuts. Belay at a stance as the flake turns lower angle, or better yet, combine with Pitch 5. Belay takes finger- and thin hand-size gear.
Pitch 5 - 5.11, 50 feet
Continue up the flake to a thin crack crux through a short roof. Belay on a good sloping ledge. Belay takes hand-size gear.
Pitch 6 - 12-, 130 feet
Jam/lieback up the wide slightly expando pancake flake (5.9) saving a #4 BD for the belay. After a stance, head up the stellar big fingers to thin hands corner (5.11-) to another stance. Fire up good fingers to a thought-provoking undercling flake (crux) to a "thank God" slam dunk jug. Cruise up to a good ledge. Belay takes #3 and bomber #4 BD cams.
Pitch 7 - 5.10, 180 feet
Scramble up and right through a bush, then straight up a short awkward dihedral (5.10), then 3rd class through some trees straight up to the base of a thin corner. Belay at one of the trees.
Pitch 8 - 5.9 or 5.6, 160 feet
Climb up the corner to a ledge and a bush, then choose your own adventure left to the original 5.9 lieback, or right through 5.6 fingers then straight up through ever widening low-angle cracks to the summit ledge. Belay at a big tree.
Pitch 1 - 5.10 - 160 feet
Start up a thin dihedral with a bush at the start, then out or around a small A-frame roof to another dihedral with thin to good fingers to a 2 bolt belay (only bolted belay on the climb).
Pitch 2 - 5.11+, 150 feet - 4 bolts
Traverse up and right to a bolt then continues right to a crumbly corner (5.7), then to a good ledge and three bolts (crux) traversing to the right to a ledge at the base of a dihedral. Belay takes hand-size gear.
Pitch 3 - 5.11+, 70 feet
Head straight up the dihedral to the start of the flake system, then undercling to the left into a radical sustained undercling fingerlock traverse to a ledge with a tree. Belay takes hand-size gear and a #4 BD.
Pitch 4 - 5.11+, 90 feet
Undercling/jam out the awkward flake to pumpy hand jams then powerful liebacking passed 4 fixed nuts. Belay at a stance as the flake turns lower angle, or better yet, combine with Pitch 5. Belay takes finger- and thin hand-size gear.
Pitch 5 - 5.11, 50 feet
Continue up the flake to a thin crack crux through a short roof. Belay on a good sloping ledge. Belay takes hand-size gear.
Pitch 6 - 12-, 130 feet
Jam/lieback up the wide slightly expando pancake flake (5.9) saving a #4 BD for the belay. After a stance, head up the stellar big fingers to thin hands corner (5.11-) to another stance. Fire up good fingers to a thought-provoking undercling flake (crux) to a "thank God" slam dunk jug. Cruise up to a good ledge. Belay takes #3 and bomber #4 BD cams.
Pitch 7 - 5.10, 180 feet
Scramble up and right through a bush, then straight up a short awkward dihedral (5.10), then 3rd class through some trees straight up to the base of a thin corner. Belay at one of the trees.
Pitch 8 - 5.9 or 5.6, 160 feet
Climb up the corner to a ledge and a bush, then choose your own adventure left to the original 5.9 lieback, or right through 5.6 fingers then straight up through ever widening low-angle cracks to the summit ledge. Belay at a big tree.
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