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Science Friction Wall
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 13
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Routes in Wonder Wall
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Arno's Corrner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Beginner's Blessing T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Centaur T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ladyslipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Last Unicorn, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Science Friction Direct S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Science Friction Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sky Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Three Saints T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Treach Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Waiting for Webster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wonder Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Wonders Never Cease T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | See comments below. |
| Page Views: | 3,157 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | cjdrover on Jun 20, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
So, historically Science Friction Wall is a full-length climb up the South Buttress. However, in modern times only the 4th (crux) pitch is commonly done. Even this pitch has a complicated history with 3 separate finishes - this entry describes the most common, known as the Webster Finish.
Begin at the end of Sky Streak, opting to take the left hand finish and belay at three bolts under a small roof. Pass the roof on the right, then follow intricate climbing, clipping the (upgraded) bolts up the black streak which marks a blunt arete. A large undercling flake marks the crux - hard climbing leads to the right of the bolt line. At the end of the crux sequence, traverse right on fantastic, airy 5.10 face climbing hundreds of feet in the air. Two bolts lead to the ledge at the top of the Last Unicorn.
Begin at the end of Sky Streak, opting to take the left hand finish and belay at three bolts under a small roof. Pass the roof on the right, then follow intricate climbing, clipping the (upgraded) bolts up the black streak which marks a blunt arete. A large undercling flake marks the crux - hard climbing leads to the right of the bolt line. At the end of the crux sequence, traverse right on fantastic, airy 5.10 face climbing hundreds of feet in the air. Two bolts lead to the ledge at the top of the Last Unicorn.
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