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Crisco Kid

5.11a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 17 votes
FA: Steve Garvey, Mary Pedroetti
Alaska > Anchorage & S C… > Portage > Byron Glacier Wall

Description

Crisco Kid climbs the left arete on the main wall. Smear up super smooth rock up a well spaced bolt line. Trust your rubber on the polished face and use magic to climb your way to the anchor. Some small stopers after the second bolt can be used to make this route a less scarry sport adventure.

Location

After crossing the stream and debris pile on the approach trail continue up valley a few hundred yards. The main wall is the lowest rock formation on the mountain and is made of a smooth, triangle shape cliff. Scramble to the base of the arete and look up to see the first bolt of Crisco Kid.

Protection

8 bolts, stoppers, 2 bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crisco Kid starts on the arete before moving out onto the smooth face.
[Hide Photo] Crisco Kid starts on the arete before moving out onto the smooth face.
Crisco Kid. Bring small stoppers/cams for the runout between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Bolts are shown.
[Hide Photo] Crisco Kid. Bring small stoppers/cams for the runout between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Bolts are shown.
Crisco Kid climbs the lowest arete in the photo.
[Hide Photo] Crisco Kid climbs the lowest arete in the photo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

alan smith
[Hide Comment] Long run out after the second bolt unless you brought small stoppers. We walked up around to left and avoid this. Jul 8, 2014
C Williams
Sketchy, Blackvanistan
 
[Hide Comment] Protects well with rp's. Be prepared for some super whacky climbing, there are no hands! It's all feet... Sep 3, 2014
C Williams
Sketchy, Blackvanistan
 
[Hide Comment] Bolts replaced 6/2020. Go get your science friction on! Jun 7, 2020
Grug M
SALT LAKE CITY
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Climbed Tom's Toothpaste and set up a TR on this one. Glad I did, this rig is hard. Super fun and unique rock! Jul 6, 2021
ASAP Becky
Safeway Parking lot in Canmore
 
[Hide Comment] Imagine climbing polished marble May 8, 2023