Chute Me
5.9,
Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
FA: Greg Barnes, George Ridgley, 8/2012
California
> Yosemite NP
> Tuolumne Meadows
> Lamb Dome
> W Face of the Lamb
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Steep crack to face start, leading to cool features, and finishing up with a slick low-angle water chute. Bolted anchor.
Optional second pitch starts with a traverse to a knobby 5.5 face (no pro, 40') and finishes with a few 5.7 moves into a corner (bomber gear) which ends at the far right side of the giant ledge where Sleeper and other routes start.
Location
Starts just right of Old Goats, pretty much exactly where the "3rd" with arrow is in the Reid/Falkenstein guide (this is an error, the 3rd class approach is up the ramp to the left). After the 4th bolt moves to the right with small cams in flakes, then back left. Bolted anchor at 140'. You can just lower with a 70m rope to the big ledge up and right of the start of the route (3rd class). Use knots!
Protection
8 bolts, pro to 3", mostly for handcrack start, but also thin cams for between the 4th and 5th bolt. Second pitch needs a few pieces of thin/medium gear for pro and anchor. At the request of shorter friends, I replaced the crux (first) bolt with 2 bolts, since the original was quite reachy (despite being hand drilled while rope-soloing!).