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Magical Mystery Tour (The Girdle/Traverse of Cannon Cliff)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in 3. Big Wall
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Vital Phenomena T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Hierophant Tower T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Ghostrider T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Ghost, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ R |
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One Drop of Water. V T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3 |
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Dreamin' (project?) T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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VMC Direct Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Labyrinth Wall Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Benedictus/Masterpiece T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Magical Mystery Tour (The Girdle/Traverse of Cannon Cliff) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6000 ft (1818 m), Grade IV |
| FA: | Paul Ross Henry Barber (var leads) Aug/1973 |
| Page Views: | 5,899 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Jun 17, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: You may come across small, silver sensors that are part of a research project on weathering on Cannon. Please do not disturb them. Thanks ! More details can be found at mountainproject.com/forum/t…
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Description
This 6000' girdle traverse of Cannon Cliff is certainly the longest roped climb in New Hampshire , providing excellent training for alpine climbs. The first ascent (traverse)from Lakeview to top out on the The Whiney-Gilman Ridge took just under six hours.Simul-climbing was used on the easier sections such as the slabs etc..Some pleasant wild situations when crossing the big wall section of the cliff.
Climb pitches 1 to 4 of Lakeview and move left to join Wiessner's. Downclimb Wiessners to the Old Cannon Garden, follow garden to its termination to the North-South-West climb. Follow NSW and climb its difficult crack pitch. Traverse left,easy ground interrupted by difficlt bits,untill the Conn Dike is reached. Climb this gully/dike for two pitches then traverse left along a ledge system. This section is vague but it's important to work your way as far to the left as possible,then make a 165' rappel to the top of the 5th pitch of Labyrinth Wall.A tricky lead straight left brings one to the long flake that slices the entire big wall section of the cliff. Enjoy an elegant pitch across the flake passing the VMC and One Drop of Water routes and belay at its extreme left end.(top of pitch 5 of The Ghost).Climb up to the left (5.7)and join Sam's Swan Song and follow to the top of its 4th pitch. Two pitches straight left brings one to second cow pasture on top of the Duet Buttress. Down climb a gully to the first cow pasture then traverse straight left 150' to Cannonade. Reverse Cannonade to the top of the Cannonade Buttress. Traverse left from the top of the Buttress to reach The Black Dike. Climb down until a traverse line just above the base of the gully brings one to a 100' corner and crack this leads to junction with the Whitney-Gilman Ridge. Finish up this fine climb to its top.The climb has had several repeats.
Climb pitches 1 to 4 of Lakeview and move left to join Wiessner's. Downclimb Wiessners to the Old Cannon Garden, follow garden to its termination to the North-South-West climb. Follow NSW and climb its difficult crack pitch. Traverse left,easy ground interrupted by difficlt bits,untill the Conn Dike is reached. Climb this gully/dike for two pitches then traverse left along a ledge system. This section is vague but it's important to work your way as far to the left as possible,then make a 165' rappel to the top of the 5th pitch of Labyrinth Wall.A tricky lead straight left brings one to the long flake that slices the entire big wall section of the cliff. Enjoy an elegant pitch across the flake passing the VMC and One Drop of Water routes and belay at its extreme left end.(top of pitch 5 of The Ghost).Climb up to the left (5.7)and join Sam's Swan Song and follow to the top of its 4th pitch. Two pitches straight left brings one to second cow pasture on top of the Duet Buttress. Down climb a gully to the first cow pasture then traverse straight left 150' to Cannonade. Reverse Cannonade to the top of the Cannonade Buttress. Traverse left from the top of the Buttress to reach The Black Dike. Climb down until a traverse line just above the base of the gully brings one to a 100' corner and crack this leads to junction with the Whitney-Gilman Ridge. Finish up this fine climb to its top.The climb has had several repeats.
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