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Routes in 1. The Hole
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[Redacted] S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Against the Grain S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Blood Raid S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bloody Mushroom Stamp S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Burning Cross S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Devil Doll S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Final Exit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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In the Flat Field S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Lactic Acid Bath S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Massacre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mojo Hand S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Scar Lover S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Skull Direct Finish S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Yowsah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Doug Reed 1991 |
| Page Views: | 1,588 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | ChrisHau on Jun 17, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
A nice bouldery route that contrasts with its more endurance-oriented neighbors. Start by scrambling up detached blocks at the left end of the cave and clip the first draw (shared with Against the Grain). Traverse rightwards on a slopey shelf to a scrunched no-hands stance before the first roof.
From here, make a long gaston and crossover to get established in the roof flake. Move efficiently along to the end of the slopey flake and grab a quick shake before the powerful crux.
Cam a heel into the flake, taking careful note of the position of the rope in relation to your leg. Make a long move into a worse-than-it-looks seam, with a non-obvious hand sequence. Desperately thrutch your hands along the seam, remembering to disentangle your foot from the rope, and pump up into an awkward stance in a little capped dihedral.
Traverse right a few feet to a shared stance with Devil Doll. Complete the same finish as Devil Doll, with a couple of engagingly long pulls between good flakes and crimps before the anchor clipping jug at the lip of the cave. A quality route that doesnt see as much traffic as its neighbors.
From here, make a long gaston and crossover to get established in the roof flake. Move efficiently along to the end of the slopey flake and grab a quick shake before the powerful crux.
Cam a heel into the flake, taking careful note of the position of the rope in relation to your leg. Make a long move into a worse-than-it-looks seam, with a non-obvious hand sequence. Desperately thrutch your hands along the seam, remembering to disentangle your foot from the rope, and pump up into an awkward stance in a little capped dihedral.
Traverse right a few feet to a shared stance with Devil Doll. Complete the same finish as Devil Doll, with a couple of engagingly long pulls between good flakes and crimps before the anchor clipping jug at the lip of the cave. A quality route that doesnt see as much traffic as its neighbors.
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