Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Doug Reed 1991
Page Views: 1,585 total · 13/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on Jun 17, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

You & This Route


10 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A nice bouldery route that contrasts with its more endurance-oriented neighbors. Start by scrambling up detached blocks at the left end of the cave and clip the first draw (shared with Against the Grain). Traverse rightwards on a slopey shelf to a scrunched no-hands stance before the first roof.

From here, make a long gaston and crossover to get established in the roof flake. Move efficiently along to the end of the slopey flake and grab a quick shake before the powerful crux.

Cam a heel into the flake, taking careful note of the position of the rope in relation to your leg. Make a long move into a worse-than-it-looks seam, with a non-obvious hand sequence. Desperately thrutch your hands along the seam, remembering to disentangle your foot from the rope, and pump up into an awkward stance in a little capped dihedral.

Traverse right a few feet to a shared stance with Devil Doll. Complete the same finish as Devil Doll, with a couple of engagingly long pulls between good flakes and crimps before the anchor clipping jug at the lip of the cave. A quality route that doesn’t see as much traffic as its neighbors.

Location Suggest change

2nd climb from the left side of the Hole. Shares a first draw with Against the Grain (13b), but breaks right.

Protection Suggest change

6 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos

0 Comments