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The Pharaoh

5.12b, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
FA: Lynn Hill and John Long, 1983
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (f) W Face Bulg… > Upper Bulge Routes

Description

This is the obvious thin, arching crack to the left of the Bat Crack. Climb up to a bolt on the left side of the dihedral, then follow the tips crack around the corner, where some wild and physical climbing gains the flaky but solid handcrack. Continue up to the anchors on Vampire Ledge or (this would be cool but I haven't done it) link into the second half of the Vampire's first pitch.

Location

Begin down and to the left of the Bat Crack on the slab below the crack.

Protection

One bolt (not sure if this was originally on route), tiny gear and some hand-sized pieces for the upper crack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Anthony Lee entering the crux
[Hide Photo] Anthony Lee entering the crux
Pulling the lieback before the no-hands rest <br> PC: Ben Ha
[Hide Photo] Pulling the lieback before the no-hands rest PC: Ben Ha

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dhayan Roark
Crowley Lake, CA
[Hide Comment] Very cool pitch - starts with facey crack then delicate yet powerful moves on good holds after the bolt, leading to some steep jamming in a flared JTree like crack (could use more traffic to clean out). There is a rotten flake jug inside the upper part of crack, if it comes out the climb will get a bit harder. Jun 19, 2014
Anthony Lee
SoCal
[Hide Comment] Underrated climb with awesome moves. Overshadowed by the Bat crack 10 ft away. May 9, 2021