All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Ontario > Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > Nimbus Wall

The Roaming Gypsies

Name: The Roaming Gypsies
Rating: 3.1

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Nimbus Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Above the Clouds T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Aud Ball S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Buccaneer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fully Erect T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Homo Erectus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A1
	I Wish I Was Deep Instead of Just Macho S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mulleteer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Nimbus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Renaissance Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Roaming Gypsies, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sick and the Afflicted, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Stratus Fear T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Swashbuckler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Victor Mature Lives S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Type:	Sport, 2 pitches
FA:	Chris Pegelo, Dave Zieleniewski
Page Views:	2,540 total · 20/month
Shared By:	Matt Looby on Jun 11, 2014 · Updates
Admins:	Dave Rone Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated: Climbing access not formally permitted, but informally accepted. Tread lightly." Details

From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated as a non-conforming use of the park. Highly sensitive area. Strive for minimal impact and low profile. All fixed protection to be camouflaged. Do not disturb the cottagers. Approach via Bruce Trail entrance.
Good mix of sport and trad, starting at higher grades mostly 5.10 and above. Some routes have anchors. Some routes start from ground, others from hanging belay. Approach is from top; rap in. Extremely complex the first visit."

Description

Rappel to the ground as for Maneline (or approach at the base). Pitch 1 starts in a dihedral on the west (climber's right) side of the Lion's Head lookout (10m left of Maneline). The pitch ends on a ledge to the left, Do Not Climb The Bolts To The Right In The Chimney! Pitch 2 starts with making a long traverse left, at least 12m. To top out on the lookout keep climbing left and up following the far placed bolts to the top. Be prepared for lots of hikers congratulating/asking questions as you pull over the edge.

The massive traverse on the second pitch makes this route difficult, exciting, and a very mentally challenging climb for both leader and follower; a fall off this pitch by either will put you in space. Make sure you have ascending gear and know how to use it.