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Bean's Shining Wall of Storms
5.12a,
Trad, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 7 pitches, Grade V,
Avg: 4 from 9
votes
FA: Greg Collins, Hans Johnstone 2012
Wyoming
> Grand Teton NP
> Grand Teton
[Hide Comment] Great route on quality alpine rock. Totally worth your effort!
Few thoughts: -Route gets sun around 12. If the ambient temps are cold I'd recommend sleeping in and starting the route once the sun hits. The lower pitches are quite cold in the morning. -P1 starts JUST right of the black and white stripes on perfect edges and jugs. If you are climbing kitty litter granite you are TOO far right. -Double rack to #1 for sure; at least one of #2 & #3. Bring a few extra sizes to back up all the gear/fixed nut/piton anchors. -Be cautious not to venture too high on P2(like I did) or you will end up traversing a harder more runout P3. -P4-P6 are sooooo stellar! Enjoy!
Aug 10, 2018
[Hide Comment] Ridiculously exposed position at the top of the Grand with exceptional climbing after P3. P4 & P5 feel like solid 12 and the pitches afterwards might be closer to 11 on the onsight. P3 wasn't very difficult but did feel pretty dangerous, especially compared to the similarly-graded, well-protected second-to-last pitch. It would be a really good idea for neither member of the party to fall on P3.
Aug 11, 2018
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Sacramento, California
Few thoughts:
-Route gets sun around 12. If the ambient temps are cold I'd recommend sleeping in and starting the route once the sun hits. The lower pitches are quite cold in the morning.
-P1 starts JUST right of the black and white stripes on perfect edges and jugs. If you are climbing kitty litter granite you are TOO far right.
-Double rack to #1 for sure; at least one of #2 & #3. Bring a few extra sizes to back up all the gear/fixed nut/piton anchors.
-Be cautious not to venture too high on P2(like I did) or you will end up traversing a harder more runout P3.
-P4-P6 are sooooo stellar!
Enjoy! Aug 10, 2018
P4 & P5 feel like solid 12 and the pitches afterwards might be closer to 11 on the onsight. P3 wasn't very difficult but did feel pretty dangerous, especially compared to the similarly-graded, well-protected second-to-last pitch. It would be a really good idea for neither member of the party to fall on P3. Aug 11, 2018
Tucson, AZ