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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
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> Q. Leaning Towe…
> Fifi Buttress
The Final Frontier
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 3.9 from 13
votes
Routes in Fifi Buttress
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Bird of Prey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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More Burly than Girly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Center of the Universe T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Voyager T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Make It So T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 |
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Nexus AKA The Niels Tietze Memorial Route, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Final Frontier, The T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Romulan Warbird T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dream Team T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Prime Directive T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 9 pitches |
| FA: | James Lucas & Nik Berry |
| Page Views: | 8,374 total · 63/month |
| Shared By: | hkennedy on Jun 8, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The Final Frontier offers some of the best climbing in Yosemite. With a mellow approach, tons of shade, easy rappels and truly amazing climbing this route gets my vote for one of the best free climbs in the Valley.
P1. Start in the obvious wide chimney (5.6) just left of the Romulan Warbird. Pass a tree on the left side with a bolt and head right to some 5.10 face climbing protected by bolts. Belay at 2-bolt stance.
P2. 5.10 corner climbing to an awesome 5.11 flake with a bolt. Belay at 2-bolt stance.
P3. Varied crack climbing (5.10+) off the belay. Several crux sections on this pitch with bolts/pins and thin gear (5.11c). Belay at the base of the obvious white corner on bolts.
P4. 5.11 stemming and crack climbing just off the belay to a left traverse into the base of a stunning grey corner. Pass a bolt and tackle 12+ stemming. Just after a sloppy rail at the top of the corner there is a key .75 cam placement. Exit right on some face holds and then traverse back left. Belay at a 2-bolt stance.
P5. Short and stout! 5.13- boulder problem protected by bolts to 5.12- climbing to the anchor.
P6. Awkward 5.11 climbing off the belay to the base of a wild corner. Thin 5.12 layback moves (green aliens work great) with the occasional finger lock lead to a small roof. Clip a bolt just over the roof and tackle the crux boulder problem (5.13a/b). A few more bolts of steep 5.11+ to the anchor.
P7. Steep 5.12- climbing past a few bolts leads to a hard 12c move off a crimp rail. 5.11 face climbing to an exposed anchor on bolts.
P8. Awesome 5.11+ climbing with steep crack climbing and knobs. A good long pitch that ends a perfect ledge.
P9. 5.9R past a bolt to less than vertical rack climbing to the top of the wall.
P1. Start in the obvious wide chimney (5.6) just left of the Romulan Warbird. Pass a tree on the left side with a bolt and head right to some 5.10 face climbing protected by bolts. Belay at 2-bolt stance.
P2. 5.10 corner climbing to an awesome 5.11 flake with a bolt. Belay at 2-bolt stance.
P3. Varied crack climbing (5.10+) off the belay. Several crux sections on this pitch with bolts/pins and thin gear (5.11c). Belay at the base of the obvious white corner on bolts.
P4. 5.11 stemming and crack climbing just off the belay to a left traverse into the base of a stunning grey corner. Pass a bolt and tackle 12+ stemming. Just after a sloppy rail at the top of the corner there is a key .75 cam placement. Exit right on some face holds and then traverse back left. Belay at a 2-bolt stance.
P5. Short and stout! 5.13- boulder problem protected by bolts to 5.12- climbing to the anchor.
P6. Awkward 5.11 climbing off the belay to the base of a wild corner. Thin 5.12 layback moves (green aliens work great) with the occasional finger lock lead to a small roof. Clip a bolt just over the roof and tackle the crux boulder problem (5.13a/b). A few more bolts of steep 5.11+ to the anchor.
P7. Steep 5.12- climbing past a few bolts leads to a hard 12c move off a crimp rail. 5.11 face climbing to an exposed anchor on bolts.
P8. Awesome 5.11+ climbing with steep crack climbing and knobs. A good long pitch that ends a perfect ledge.
P9. 5.9R past a bolt to less than vertical rack climbing to the top of the wall.
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