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The Wild Child
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 7
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Routes in Horsetooth Rock - West Face
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Choss Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Not a Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Straight from the Horse's Mouth S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tourist Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Treasure Chimney (aka North Chimney) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wild Child, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Unknown, 1970s, FFA: Ryan Nelson |
| Page Views: | 2,992 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jun 3, 2014 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The Wild Child is the route to do this face. Many variations exist, and it's one of the most obvious and intimidating lines from the ground. Find the large roof. This is the route.
P1 (32m, 5.11-): the first pitch of this route climbs an overhanging, wide crack. Three #3 Camalots would be nice for the climb, but I usually do it with two and slide one. A #4 Camalot also comes in handy as well.
Make sure you have an attentive belayer/spotter for the first few feet of the climb as the gear is marginal.
Climb this to the base of the roof, and build an anchor.
P2 (20m, 5.10-): this pitch is intimidating, but it eats gear, and the feet are more positive than the looks of it. Climb through the roof, and move around the corner and up to a two bolt belay. Thin gear.
P3 (45m, 5.10 R/X): climb into the Gully 5.9R, and build a belay or skip the belay (using triple length runners), and climb the 5.10R/X Chimney that happens to be the Horsetooth Gap.
Alternate P3 (40m, 5.11-): climb the last pitch of Craig Luebben's sport route - Straight into the Horse's Mouth.
Descent: to descend the middle tooth, you can either rap off the top (SHIT LOADS OF DRAG) or downclimb/rap partially into the 4th class chimney to the east.
P1 (32m, 5.11-): the first pitch of this route climbs an overhanging, wide crack. Three #3 Camalots would be nice for the climb, but I usually do it with two and slide one. A #4 Camalot also comes in handy as well.
Make sure you have an attentive belayer/spotter for the first few feet of the climb as the gear is marginal.
Climb this to the base of the roof, and build an anchor.
P2 (20m, 5.10-): this pitch is intimidating, but it eats gear, and the feet are more positive than the looks of it. Climb through the roof, and move around the corner and up to a two bolt belay. Thin gear.
P3 (45m, 5.10 R/X): climb into the Gully 5.9R, and build a belay or skip the belay (using triple length runners), and climb the 5.10R/X Chimney that happens to be the Horsetooth Gap.
Alternate P3 (40m, 5.11-): climb the last pitch of Craig Luebben's sport route - Straight into the Horse's Mouth.
Descent: to descend the middle tooth, you can either rap off the top (SHIT LOADS OF DRAG) or downclimb/rap partially into the 4th class chimney to the east.
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