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South Ridge

5.8, Sport, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: P. Murdock D. Gennarelli (May 2014)
International > Africa > Angola > Pedras Negras > Shield

Description

Great casual route to an amazing summit. Feels like gym climbing with a big cobble where you need it for every move. As with any less-traveled route, loose rock can be an issue, but the cobbles are quite solid.

Start: Just left of a shallow chimney on the south edge of the tower. There is a clear band of cobbles going up the rounded arete left of the chimney and right of an incipient crack. The first 2 bolts will be visible from the ground.

Pitch 1: Move up left on some small ledges to gain the cobble band, clip the first bolt, then trend up and right past 2 more bolts to a small overlap. Pass this (sling a big cobble for extra pro) and continue past 2 more bolts to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5 bolts. 5.7 (150 ft)

Pitch 2: Shuffle the belay right onto the huge grass ledge (no anchor). Move up, just right of a small tree into an small depression/crack. There is a hole (added on the descent) for a removable bolt in the back depression, or just continue up and left onto the rounded arete. Pass a large stopper placement (optional) and continue up to a bolt at a small sloping ledge. Continue up and left through a water channel (darker rock) past another bolt to a 2-bolt anchor above a small grassy ledge. There is a removable bolt hole down on the small grassy ledge to offset the belay stance if desired. 2 bolts. 5.6 (120 ft)

Pitch 3: Move up and left off the belay to a bolt, then trend up and right passing 4 more bolts to a ledge just right and down from the summit ridge. 2 bolt anchor is just below summit ridge. 5 bolts. 5.8 (100 ft)

Descent: Double rope rappel the route. Watch for ropes getting hung on cobbles.  Location of belays was done to improve the rappel line so when you are cursing me on the way up for weird belay locations, hopefully you’ll thank me on the way down and when pulling ropes.

Location

South side of tower. Route is clearly visible from the road.  The approach is only about 350-400m.  Half of which is easy hiking in short grass and over surface slabs.  Don't let the first half with the tall grass scare you away.  

Protection

As with most routes that we have done here, removable bolts are useful, although not required for this route. Extra long slings are also useful to reduce rope drag and sling horns where desired.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

3 climbers on the summit after 2nd ascent...
[Hide Photo] 3 climbers on the summit after 2nd ascent...
Nice casual route for a half-day outing after going to Calandula falls.
[Hide Photo] Nice casual route for a half-day outing after going to Calandula falls.
Climbers on the big ledge at the end of the 1st pitch.
[Hide Photo] Climbers on the big ledge at the end of the 1st pitch.
Dan up on the final slab of pitch 3.  Even though the route is fairly slabby, there is always good exposure off the West face of the tower, so it feels like a vertical route the whole way.  The 3rd pitch is pretty close to vertical so you really feel the exposure of the whole route while you climb.
[Hide Photo] Dan up on the final slab of pitch 3. Even though the route is fairly slabby, there is always good exposure off the West face of the tower, so it feels like a vertical route the whole way. The 3rd…
Summit belay.  Car for scale.
[Hide Photo] Summit belay. Car for scale.
About to reach the upper slabs of Pitch 3 (30-40 feet to go on upper slab).  Shows approximate path of route.
[Hide Photo] About to reach the upper slabs of Pitch 3 (30-40 feet to go on upper slab). Shows approximate path of route.
From the top of the first pitch.  Our car is on the road in the distance.  Gives a good overview of the approach through the grass.
[Hide Photo] From the top of the first pitch. Our car is on the road in the distance. Gives a good overview of the approach through the grass.
Another island in the sky!
[Hide Photo] Another island in the sky!