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Routes in Horsetooth Rock - West Face
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Choss Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Not a Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Straight from the Horse's Mouth S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tourist Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Treasure Chimney (aka North Chimney) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wild Child, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ryan Nelson |
| Page Views: | 4,895 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jun 2, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This route is spectacular and you need to climb all 300 feet of it.
Pitch 1 (35m, 5.8): climb up an easy slab with a lot of face holds up to a left-facing dihedral with 2 cracks (finger and flaring 0.75) running up the wall. Set gear as high as you can, and then bust out on to the ledge above (the gear on the upper dihedral can be tricky to see for newer leaders). Continue up a fist crack to chains. A single 70m just reaches to ground from these anchors. A 60 meter can be used, but one will have to downclimb the slab (5.5ish).
Pitch 2 (20m, 5.9): this pitch makes the hike to this route worth it.
Move up and left to the dihedral, past a tan bolt and up into a bulging finger crack, and continue up to chains.
Pitch 3 (35m, 5.4R): this is a great face climbing pitch with wandering gear and two tan bolts to supplement the longer run outs. This pitch requires one to build an anchor at the top.
Climb this to the top of the rock and prepared to get gawked at by all the tourists.
Descent: walk off the tooth to the north and back to the base of the climb.
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