PRINT: Climb Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder 1, Northeast California

Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder 1

C1, Trad, TR, Aid, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
California > Northeast Calif… > Redding Area > Burney Limeston… > Pachyderm Wall AKA Su…

Access Issue: Private Property Details

Burney Limestone is technically on private property that is owned by Bear Gulch Quarry. There have been access concerns in the past between climbers and the landowners, although it has been many years. Please respect the area, keep a low profile, and leave it cleaner than you found it.

Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

This route was initially bolted on lead with a hand drill for the purpose of aid training. This route continues to change as holds break from free climbing attempts due to the friable nature of the limestone on the Pachyderm Wall. It see's much less traffic then Hole in the Wall, so it remains dirty and brittle.

A free climbing option does exist and attempts at cleaning and freeing loose holds is underway.

Location

This route is located right of Hole in the Wall.
Plan to access the route either from the top on rappel or at the bottom from the lower access trail.
If using a 70 meter rope, the top anchors are 35 meters from the bottom of the Sunshine Wall and can be used to set a top rope or safely rappel to the base. It is a rope stretcher! Anchors exist 10 feet from the base to either fix your ropes or anchor off at the base to belay.

Protection

This was originally an aid line and has a a multitude of 3/8' bomber bolts and anchors all the way to the top. If freeing this route, I believe it has approx 22 bolts, though 12-15 QuickDraws would probably suffice.

The top of the route consist of a 2 bolt anchor and chains set 35 meters from the ground allowing for use of a 70 meter top rope or rappel. CAUTION.....ROPE STRETCHER!!! Use bolted anchor at the base to secure your rope from creeping after lowering or rapping to the base?

Several loose sections exist, and may warrant a helmet by a belayer.

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topout

guano smelly..

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST

my 70m doubled, reached the bottom of the route in one go.
Follows the obvious crack on RHS of wall.
There is a random lower off 5m off the ground..
22 bolts for some reason, although we only used 12 quickdraws and did it in one 35m pitch. dirty and somewhat loose in places. One obvious hard bit and rest is ok. Felt like E25c. Seems like they tried too hard to force the action on the top wall, trending R for a few moves, but this is easy and more fun (and runout) to bypass by just continuing up the natural crack feature. pulled off a few holds... Nov 12, 2014

Muscrat

Good aid line, C1. A couple of spots mandatory free, <10 (?) There are 4 belay stations if you count the one 5' off the ground and the top. The last 15' are really dirty, and covered in poison oak. If you stop at the belay 15' from the top (where the crack starts up again) you do not have to fiddle fart around with the 70m rope not quite reaching the ground.
Leading this is ...weird. It was bolted as an aid line on lead, with no thought to clipping stances if/when it was freed. The bolts are numerous, ridiculously so, but some stances are...senseless. The line is aesthetic, in it's own way, but tragic that someone put an aid line up what could have been a good free route. 5.11? Feb 16, 2015