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California
> Northeast Calif…
> Redding Area
> Burney Limeston…
> Pachyderm Wall AKA Su…
Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder 1
C1
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine Wall
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Dumbo Shrimp TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eleph I Know T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Elephator S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Elephun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Elephunky Traverse T C0 |
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Hole in the Wall S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Memories I've Never Had S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder 1 T,TR C1 |
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Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder 2 T C1 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, Aid, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 807 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Steve W on May 30, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Burney Limestone is technically on private property that is owned by Bear Gulch Quarry. There have been access concerns in the past between climbers and the landowners, although it has been many years. Please respect the area, keep a low profile, and leave it cleaner than you found it.
Description
This route was initially bolted on lead with a hand drill for the purpose of aid training. This route continues to change as holds break from free climbing attempts due to the friable nature of the limestone on the Pachyderm Wall. It see's much less traffic then Hole in the Wall, so it remains dirty and brittle.
A free climbing option does exist and attempts at cleaning and freeing loose holds is underway.
A free climbing option does exist and attempts at cleaning and freeing loose holds is underway.
Location
This route is located right of Hole in the Wall.
Plan to access the route either from the top on rappel or at the bottom from the lower access trail.
If using a 70 meter rope, the top anchors are 35 meters from the bottom of the Sunshine Wall and can be used to set a top rope or safely rappel to the base. It is a rope stretcher! Anchors exist 10 feet from the base to either fix your ropes or anchor off at the base to belay.
Plan to access the route either from the top on rappel or at the bottom from the lower access trail.
If using a 70 meter rope, the top anchors are 35 meters from the bottom of the Sunshine Wall and can be used to set a top rope or safely rappel to the base. It is a rope stretcher! Anchors exist 10 feet from the base to either fix your ropes or anchor off at the base to belay.
Protection
This was originally an aid line and has a a multitude of 3/8' bomber bolts and anchors all the way to the top. If freeing this route, I believe it has approx 22 bolts, though 12-15 QuickDraws would probably suffice.
The top of the route consist of a 2 bolt anchor and chains set 35 meters from the ground allowing for use of a 70 meter top rope or rappel. CAUTION.....ROPE STRETCHER!!! Use bolted anchor at the base to secure your rope from creeping after lowering or rapping to the base?
Several loose sections exist, and may warrant a helmet by a belayer.
The top of the route consist of a 2 bolt anchor and chains set 35 meters from the ground allowing for use of a 70 meter top rope or rappel. CAUTION.....ROPE STRETCHER!!! Use bolted anchor at the base to secure your rope from creeping after lowering or rapping to the base?
Several loose sections exist, and may warrant a helmet by a belayer.
Photos
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