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> Northeast Calif…
> Redding Area
> Burney Limeston…
> Pachyderm Wall AKA Su…
Hole in the Wall
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 13
votes
Routes in Pachyderm Wall AKA Sunshine Wall
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Dumbo Shrimp TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eleph I Know T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Elephator S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Elephun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Elephunky Traverse T C0 |
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Hole in the Wall S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Memories I've Never Had S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder 1 T,TR C1 |
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Sunshine Face Bolt Ladder 2 T C1 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,774 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Steve W on May 30, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Burney Limestone is technically on private property that is owned by Bear Gulch Quarry. There have been access concerns in the past between climbers and the landowners, although it has been many years. Please respect the area, keep a low profile, and leave it cleaner than you found it.
Description
This route starts just above the "large hole in the wall", alcove. The route starts easy at around 5.7 along a crack, passing 5 bolts to the first anchor, at 10 meters. This anchor can be passed to combine the lower and upper portions of the climb, if using a 70 meter rope. The route becomes much more difficult after the first anchor with plenty of smears, crimps and layback's. Continue past 8 more bolts another 25 meters to the upper anchor. You can lower off at the anchor if using a 70 meter rope back to the base of the Pachyderm Wall./ Sunshine Wall. The rope run's smoothly for a top rope if you were wondering!
Location
Access Hole in the wall either from the 2 bolt anchor at the top or from the lower access trail.
If you are using anything shorter than a 70 meter rope, plan to take a second rope for the rap. Plan to stay and enjoy routes at either the Main Wall, Outer Wall, Approach Wall or Backside Wall routes.
If you are using anything shorter than a 70 meter rope, plan to take a second rope for the rap. Plan to stay and enjoy routes at either the Main Wall, Outer Wall, Approach Wall or Backside Wall routes.
Protection
The route is protected with 13 newer 5 piece Powers 3/8' bolts and Fixe hangers. The anchors are equipped with plated chains, quick links and spring shuts. Even though the lower section is a crack, the FA party opted to bolt protect due to the fragile nature of the limestone. This is typical in limestone sport climbing. If your so inclined to use trad pro and pass the bolts, beware a fall could fracture this brittle limestone and change a great route.
Topping out this route is a bit sketchy due to the dirt and loose debris above the anchors. A chain around a tree can be used as an anchor if you choose to belay the second above the anchors. Watch for your rope dragging debris and potentially dropping it on climber below.
Topping out this route is a bit sketchy due to the dirt and loose debris above the anchors. A chain around a tree can be used as an anchor if you choose to belay the second above the anchors. Watch for your rope dragging debris and potentially dropping it on climber below.
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