All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > N Walls

Chilkoot Pass

Name: Chilkoot Pass
Rating: 3.0

5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in The North Walls

L › R R › L A › Z

	Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cassiopeia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Come From Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Crack of Destiny, The T 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
	Empire Of Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Monoceros T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Nanook T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Nch’Kay Wall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	North North Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Parallel Passages T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Southern Lights, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Tainted Love T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
	Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type:	Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Matt Maddaloni and Paul Cordy (June 2007)
Page Views:	1,346 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Travis McClinchey on May 25, 2014
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Chilkoot Pass is a two-pitch variation finish to the excellent climb of The Calling. It avoids the final two pitches of the Calling, which are overgrown, uneventful and rarely climbed. This variation keeps the climbing in the sustained 5.11 range. Both pitches are varied, exciting and fun! They are full value after previously climbing to this point!

This variation begins near the end of the fourth (aka. crux) pitch of the Calling. After pulling the crux on this pitch, veer immediately right on a small ledge to a two bolt anchor. This cuts the fourth pitch of the Calling short by ~ 30 feet and avoids the run out moves on the moss minefield slab that The Calling continues up.

P1: Make easy moves and clip a bolt to the right of the anchor. Down climb a few feet on a hanging slab and make a few slab moves as you angle rightward and up. Gain a slabby crack, which leads to an obvious crack on a headwall. Climb the thin-hands crack, which narrows to fingers at the end. Pull into a slabby right-facing corner which angles rightward. Gear anchor. 5.11+

P2: This pitch works its way through the two intimidating small roofs that are obvious from the anchor immediately above. Clip two bolts as you face climb slightly right to the entrance of the first roof and, once established under the roof, hand traverse left to the obvious entrance of the first roof. Take a quick rest with perfect hand jams and prepare to pull yourself, on great jug(s) and finger lock(s), up into a small a small alcove. Pull yourself into the alcove. Clip a bolt to the left of this alcove (to prevent rope drag) and take an optional seated rest as you admire Squamish below. Stiff and tight underlining and/or ring-locks get you through the second roof, which leads to a finger-to-hand crack in a right-facing corner. Ride this to crack to the ledge with one quick roof to battle with en route. Tree anchor. 5.11+

Topo and description by Matt Maddaloni: mattmaddaloni.com/Chilkoot%…

Description by Paul Cordy: climblife.blogspot.ca/2007/…

Location

The climb ends to the right of The Calling. Same descent as The Calling. The descent can be tricky if you've never been up there before and/or it is dark. It also has a couple exposed steps. Be careful.