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Routes in Raiden Area
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Alific V5 6C |
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Big Cheesy V5 6C |
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Brain in a Jar V7-8 7B |
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Dunkin' Donuts (Direct) V7-8 7B |
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Dunkin' Donuts Variation V6 7A |
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Dunn Woody V8 7B |
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Grateful Dead V4 6B |
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Kane V7 7A+ |
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Kraken, The V4 6B R |
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Nonfat Milk V6 7A |
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Raiden V6+ 7A |
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Reduced Fat Milk V7 7A+ |
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Taking the Stairs V9- 7C |
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Titan V5 6C |
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Whiteout V9 7C |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Boulder, 13 ft (4 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,043 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Christian Prellwitz on May 22, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aeon Aki, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock!
Details
Attention:
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
This problem is one of the most debated grades in Joe's Valley, especially since it is somewhat of an eliminate. The direct version was given v10 in the guidebook, but the grade seems to be settling in somewhere from v8 to soft v9. The other version seems to be around v6-ish. While clearly not v10, this climb is a tricky one to grade because the difficulty will vary depending on one's wingspan. Ultimately, what gets lost in all of this discussion is that this is a fantastic problem with really fun and enjoyable movement.
Start sitting in a pit, with both hands on a right facing sidepull. Pull off the ground and head left and up towards some good underclings. Make a huge move from the underclings with either the left or right hand to some slopers. Figure out a way to reach the good jugs and top out directly above.
The 'direct' version is somewhat of an eliminate as you can can traverse further left from the good underclings and reach some sidepulls that make reaching the top out holds easier. However, I feel that the direct version (even if an eliminate) is a lot more fun and worth posting as a climb unto itself.
With that in mind, it would be ideal if people contribute star ratings and grades that are for this specific 'direct' version and not for the other version, since the 'direct' version is what most people climb. Feel free to post the 'indirect' version up if you feel strongly that it deserves its own listing.
Start sitting in a pit, with both hands on a right facing sidepull. Pull off the ground and head left and up towards some good underclings. Make a huge move from the underclings with either the left or right hand to some slopers. Figure out a way to reach the good jugs and top out directly above.
The 'direct' version is somewhat of an eliminate as you can can traverse further left from the good underclings and reach some sidepulls that make reaching the top out holds easier. However, I feel that the direct version (even if an eliminate) is a lot more fun and worth posting as a climb unto itself.
With that in mind, it would be ideal if people contribute star ratings and grades that are for this specific 'direct' version and not for the other version, since the 'direct' version is what most people climb. Feel free to post the 'indirect' version up if you feel strongly that it deserves its own listing.
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