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B-B-Bubbas link-up
5.10a,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 117
votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Northwest Territories
Description
This is a great link up that avoids the usually mungy and reachy start of Scrubbing Bubbas by climbing the beginning of B-b-buttress, then moving right at the 7th bolt to join Bubbas. The top is fantastic, following steep cracks and other positive holds up an exposed arete. It is pretty well protected, but may feel slightly spicy the first time if it is near your limit. If you are gripping out it is usually a case of needing to reach up for a hidden hold that magically appears when you most need it. The grade is whatever you think the start of B-b-buttress is; 9+ if you climb to the left of the first bolt and keep on your feet.
Location
Left side of the Northwest Territories crag. It starts about where the trail first comes up to the crag
Protection
11 bolts to LO. Use a longer draw on the 7th bolt of B-B-buttres then move right to Scrubbing Bubbas. 60 m rope needed. Knot your end. It just makes it. Note - hornets often nest in the upper cracks, so be aware if you are allergic to them.
[Hide Photo] Don't pull the rope down through the draws! Pull it the other way, or else the end can get stuck in the crack near the 8th (or 9th?) bolt, as shown. Ours got jammed pretty tight, and there was…
[Hide Photo] most of the line, note the extended draw.
[Hide Photo] Jakob loving the top half of Scrubbing Bubbas. B-B-Buttress on the left.
[Hide Photo] Climber at the B-B-Buttress bouldery start. The rope is the route.
[Hide Comment] 11 bolts to LO. Use a longer draw on the 7th bolt of B-B-buttres then move right to Scrubbing Bubbas. Adds another crux and gets 10a from me.
May 20, 2014
[Hide Comment] Very good route. The top headwall was tough on onsight. "Magical" hold on the right not easy to find. A member of our party later found a more efficient way to solve the top headwall at 5.9. The way I did it with "magical" hold was more like .10a/b.
Aug 8, 2015
[Hide Comment] I'd agree with 5.10a/b for the stout move at the beginning of B-b-buttress (where the block fell off). Nothing harder than 5.9+, though certainly a bit spicy and not obvious, up high. Good route!
Sep 21, 2015
[Hide Comment] Had to deal with over 20 hornets nesting in the upper cracks. I made it out fine, and managed to send, but the beautiful looking cracks were basically off limits and I had to use some crimps to make it work. If you have a bee allergy or aren't confident at the grade, I'd say don't lead this.
Regardless, it was a fun link up, and the line seems just as natural as staying left on B-B-Buttress. It's tough to decide which finish is funner.
Apr 17, 2016
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![Jakob loving the top half of [[106775808]]. [[106147475]] on the left.](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/106890292_medium_1494148760.jpg?cache=1701316522)
Wendell MA
Los Angeles, CA
Newton, MA
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Regardless, it was a fun link up, and the line seems just as natural as staying left on B-B-Buttress. It's tough to decide which finish is funner. Apr 17, 2016