PRINT: Climb Rash, Joe's Valley

Rash

V7+, Boulder, 13 ft (4 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Central Utah > Joe's Valley > Right Fork > Perimeter

Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock! Details

Attention:

Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-

climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…

and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.

Description

This sweet little vertical line will test your crimp strength and technique. At first glance, the holds seems obvious, but piecing them together in the right sequence proves to be trickier than expected.

Start with your left hand on an edge at 5 feet and your right on a slimper sidepull slightly higher and to the right. Attain the crimp above via some technical trickery and proceed onwards towards the lips via gastons and sloping edges.

A final committing move to the top caps off this stellar climb!

Location

This climb is on the right side of the vertical face that is to the left (and around the corner) of Battletoads.

Protection

A few pads are nice. It would also be ideal to have a spotter standing on the rock slab behind you to help redirect you in case you fell during the last couple of moves.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO

V7+

I've talked to a lot of people that think this is hard for v7. I felt that it was similar in difficulty to Black Sea (or maybe slightly easier) which felt solid at v8. So, it could be hard 7 or soft 8. Contribute a rating and we'll see what the consensus is. I'll be happy to change the rating, if necessary, as a consensus develops. May 16, 2014