[Hide Comment] Another climber told us this was 5.8 which most of it is but the crux 3/4 the way up the first pitch was definitely 5.10 but really good climbing. I did not get to do the second pitch but it looks like more moderate fun climbing. We used a 70m rope so I am not sure if a 60m would work or not. May 5, 2014

[Hide Comment] 1st pitch crux is 10a coming in from the right, or, 10d coming in slightly from the left on small friable crimps (of which we broke a couple).

2nd pitch felt like 10a but was very, very friable and definately not recommended.

60 meter rope worked just fine. Apr 9, 2015

[Hide Comment] If this is the route sharing the start with Wooden Hammer we thought it to be about 5.8 but we did not do the top pitch. We did one 35 meter pitch to some heavy chains, passing a nice ledge half way that had rap hangers. A little dirty (new) but should clean up nicely. Nov 24, 2015

[Hide Comment] Climbed this over the weekend. Doesn't seem to get done much. The first 20 feet or so were pretty dirty and had lichen growing on it. After the first few bolts the route cleans up and is very enjoyable climbing on good varnish, up until the crux.

As stated, the crux is about 3/4 of the way up. The varnish gives way to softer white sandstone for 5-10 feet. The holds were a little slopey and often covered in a thin layer of sand. Instead of trying to go straight up the dirty blank section, we climbed to the right on jugs then traversed back in to clip. There was a large hueco to the right that worked as a great hold... until it broke. It should still be possible to traverse in from the right to clip, but it may be a little harder now.

At the top of the first pitch there was a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings, and a single glue-in only halfway sunk in the wall, with no glue to be seen. Didn't climb the second pitch. We rapped off the 1st pitch using a 70m rope and had a couple meters to spare.

I think it'll clean up into a real fun climb, but as it is it definitely needs a little work.

Also, route name suggestion: Anti-Knee-High-Levi's Mar 21, 2016

[Hide Comment] We called this "Zack's Route" for a few years. The latest edition of Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah lists this route as "Long Time Coming". Sep 18, 2017

[Hide Comment] Haha, great idea for the route name, Finn.

Stan, it sounds like you were on a different route.

P1 is long and fun, didn't do P2. Nov 26, 2017

[Hide Comment] The first pitch(5.9) of this route is different for the area. It provides some fun friction moves at the start. Then it climbs up past a comfortable ledge with two large metolius hangers. Do not clip into the hangers. Climb past through some dark patina up to some newish shiny hangers. STOP HERE and rap back down(with a 70m). The second pitch is dirty, sandy, chossy, and not fun. I’ve climbed most of the routes at the prophesy wall and this second pitch is the only one I can recommend to avoid. Nov 21, 2019

[Hide Comment] Climbed in this area today and there seems to be a route missing. We climbed the route just right of “put up or shut up” (route clearly matched description) and thought it was king bolete but, although we thought it was 10c it did not match the description. Just prior to this we climbed a route which shared the start of wooden hammer and thought the first pitch was about 10b, second pitch (chossy, a million holds) maybe 5.9, which we thought was long time coming. Now I think LTC was what we thought was the king route and the other a non-listed route. Either way very fun routes. We thought the non-listed route was maybe the best route on the wall. Nov 14, 2024