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Shake Junt

V8, Boulder,  Avg: 3.3 from 9 votes
FA: Jackson Adair
California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Santa Barbara… > Noir Boulder

Description

Sit start on big pockets. Head straight up with flowingly awesome movement through the crux that is gaining the lip. Hard shoulder moves and big move to the jug will find you standing on top.
I had to pick a grade but as more folks do this rig we will gain better understanding of what this line is-could be harder? could be easier?

EDIT: there is an alternative (read: significantly easier) finish to Shake Junt as well. Instead of the burly deadpoint to the bucket-jug, finish up and left, using the slopey jug on the warmup. Still good, just not as hard.

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Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ann Raber dials in the crux
[Hide Photo] Ann Raber dials in the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V8
[Hide Comment] Great work on the landing, guys! This problem follows a tempting line of pockets, and gets savage at the very, very top! Not a gimme. I sent after working the moves for about 30 minutes, but I am a tad taller than my climbing partners (who happen to be a tad burlier than I), so I reeled this one in without too much drama. Still, the top-out was quite hard, and doesn't really favor the tall or the short. That said, the lower crux is STIFF for shorties.

Tim King attempts the top-out.
Apr 18, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V8
[Hide Comment] Also, I know Jackson added a low-low-start when he moved the boulder, but Bernd topped this out, along with a bunch of other lines here, over five years ago. Apr 26, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V8
[Hide Comment] Not the greatest video, but it shows one way to climb the crux. This is the "pocket version" of the crux. I know some other folks do it this way, too. Good fun.

youtube.com/watch?v=5FIbkG3… Jul 24, 2020