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Heart of Darkness/New Morning
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Mowing Word
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Diedre Sud T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Right Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Heart of Darkness/New Morning T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jim Perrin and J Kingston 1972 |
| Page Views: | 884 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Russell on Apr 15, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Jack Copland |
Description
From the ledges, climb up and left to the arete, from which you can peer round at the route. Continue up to the series of breaks: you want your hands in the top one for the most part. Now the route is obvious: traverse the breaks to the left, above a sea cave, into a corner and back out to belay just round the arete. The most comfortable belay ledge is a few feet above the breaks, but if you want to see your second, extending it and hanging on the arete is the best option.
The hands are all there, but sometimes you are left wanting for feet. The protection is good: plug a cam in just about anywhere (if you have enough!). Good rope management is necessary, and as the belayer can't see the leader, communication is difficult. A fall for either member of the party will have you swinging in free space, no option other than to prussic back up the rope.
The second pitch is a finely positioned climb straight up the strenuous jamming crack directly above the belay. Protection is plentiful, and the climbing is never desperate. Belay at a stake well back.
Location
There isn't a convenient stake to abseil off above the start of the route so you'll have to fix your own anchor. As you walk out along the headland, there is a lower, grassy shelf on the right, about 50m from the end. Abseil about 5m before this, off nuts and slings.
One can also rig an abseil off a large block by wrapping your fixed abseil line around it. No extra gear needed. This abseil runs next to the route Seal, which is found on the other side of the peninsula where Heart of Darkness is found. From the top and end of the peninsula scramble down to an obvious shelf and the abseil block. Here the abseil is about 100'. From here scramble about 100 feet to the left (as you face the rock). WARNING: do not abseil into this zone in high seas even if it is at low tide.
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