PRINT: Rock Climb Stealth N' Magic, The New River Gorge Region

Stealth N' Magic

5.12d, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 15 votes
FA: Rick Thompson, Eric Horst, Carl Samples, Bob Rentka, 1989
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Everything you could ask for in a 12+ face climb at Endless. Burl your way through the powerful crux down low, finesse (or grovel) through a unique technical crux up high, and keep it together for one more reeeach at the end. Don't expect a gimme, but you are certain to feel accomplished after ticking this one! Used to be the same grade as Techman, which seems like some sort of cruel joke.

I can't think of a reason why this route doesn't deserve four stars, maybe because it's stuck in the corner? It's at least as good as Freaky Stylee. Get on it!

Location

Right of Techman

Protection

7 bolts to bolted anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Erica setting up for the crux moves

Erica eyeing down the final move of the ramp sequence

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BrianWS

three district cruxes, killer movement, and great stone... That is, until the last two bolts, where the rock quality takes a turn for the friable and sandy. Oh, and it is one of the few technical climbs at the New which stays dry in the rain.

It's also one of the few NRG 5.12s where taller folks may be at a distinct disadvantage during the crux. Described as "soft 12c" in the Thompson guide, but definitely harder than that. 12d seems very fair. Nov 7, 2015

Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO

Brian, did I actually call it soft 12c? That was wrongo! Jun 16, 2016

Mark Paulson
Raleigh, NC

5.12d

Four star movement detracted only by aspect (in a corner behind a tree) and a little sand up top (although it's way cleaner than it used to be). Otherwise, a fantastic climb. May 30, 2017

Pnelson

I agree this is slightly lower quality than its neighbors to the left, both because its first three bolts are incredibly close to the Biohazard corner (at the second bolt most folks use some shared holds), and due to some mildly sandy, flakey rock at the top. It would still be an ultra-classic at most other crags; we can just afford to be quality snobs here at the NRG. Solid 5.12+, with probably the hardest single move on the wall, but still easier to send than Pudd's or Slash'n'Burn. Dec 6, 2018

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC

Erica sent this "Last go Best go" yesterday after 2 back to back days of effort on the line. The video here is put together from both days, thus the clothing change for the upper half. :) I kind of wish I had the actual send on video as it was a hot mess with stepping on shoe laces and holds breaking excitement. youtu.be/5KOkMiOFSPI Apr 19, 2021