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Lightning Bolt Cracks
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Devil's Slide
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Deal with the Devil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Devil His Due S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Devil in the Details S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Devil on Horseback S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Devil on My Shoulder TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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El Cracko Diablillo T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Friend of the Devil T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lightning Bolt Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mallory's Malice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Steve Cheyney/Stewart Green? Colorado Mountain Club? |
| Page Views: | 1,336 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Dickson on Apr 1, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This short but fun crack ascends the right-most portion of the upper cliff above Devil's Slide. It is mostly a hand crack with a fun section where you transfer from one crack to another. The start looks runout to get to the base of the crack, but good pro can be found behind a flake at the base of the route. If you are looking for an easily approachable climb on Old Stage, hit this up! You can see it from the road.
Location
Find this route by either climbing the lower pitches of Devil's Slide or hiking up a gully to the left of the lower slab. There used to be some loose rock at the base and not much of a belay stance. Per Kyle O: I added a belay anchor, cleaned it up, and there is indeed a belay stance. there is now a two bolt anchor with rap rings at the top of this climb that replaced the tat anchor.
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