Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Birthing the Piggy

5.8, Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 1.8 from 6 votes
FA: Stewart M. Green & Brian Shelton, 2005 or 2006
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Bank > 01. Piggy Bank

Description

Climb the wide crack between Pink Torpedo and The Sweepings to the bolted anchor of The Sweepings for an optional belay. Then climb through the back of the squeeze chimney to the top and belay from a tree.

Descend by the gully to the right or carefully make your way to the anchors for Poncho (a short belay is recommended for reaching the exposed anchors).

Location

At the Piggy Bank, right of Pink Torpedo, look for daylight at the top of the chimney.

Protection

Single rack to 3" plus #5 and #6 C4. You can skip the large gear if you use the first bolt from The Sweepings and/or run it out.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Is that a #5 at Shelf Rd!?
[Hide Photo] Is that a #5 at Shelf Rd!?
Follow the crack and out the back of the chimney.
[Hide Photo] Follow the crack and out the back of the chimney.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jonathan S
Golden, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] FA: Stewart M Green & Brian Shelton(?) 2005? (courtesy of Michael McGee). Apr 2, 2014
Jonathan S
Golden, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] If anyone knows this route by another name, let me know. Apr 2, 2014
Stewart M. Green
[Hide Comment] Yeah, Brian Shelton and I climbed this beast in either 2005 or 2006, about the time that Bob D. and I put up Pink Torpedo. Fun OW crack climb that we never named. I mean really, who likes to climb crack at Shelf? So it's fine with me to leave your name, Jonathan. When we climbed it, I thought that maybe Mark Van Horn or Darryl Roth had climbed it before us.... Apr 6, 2014
dylan grabowski
Denver
 
[Hide Comment] I would've like to have saved the #5 for the bit of the crack near the top of "P1" before traversing left to the optional belay. I was a body length above a #3 that didn't inspire the most confidence. Fun route though! Mar 18, 2019