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Turn Down, For What?
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British R
Avg: 3.6 from 5
votes
Routes in 3. The Right Wall
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A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Brother from Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Cookin’ with Gas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dark Sky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Death Spiral T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Donald Duckin It T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dr. Octagon T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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East Coast Fist Bump T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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East Coast Fist Bump OG Variation T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Flavor of the Day T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Harder they Come, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Kindness T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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No Utopia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Over the Moon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Proud Bootlegger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Resurrection T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Special Child T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Tainted Love T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three Sheets to the Wind T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Vietnam Vacation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Joel Unema 2014 |
| Page Views: | 2,347 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Joel Unema on Mar 28, 2014 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
If you wonder what it takes to climb this route...look up turn down for what on YouTube... lil Jon.
Climb broken but steep rock that is much more solid than it looks up to a ledge. Launch into the high quality climbing above, stemming and liebacking twin seams in a flake up to a ledge. Mantle the ledge, plug some gear and turn it up for the technical and very fingery boulder problem. From here continue up the pocketed stem box...plugging occasional microcams in horizontals. It would be possible to traverse right onto sweet dreams or left onto the finishing ledge of Flavor of the Day.... doing so reduces the grade a bit and the quality significantly.
Climb broken but steep rock that is much more solid than it looks up to a ledge. Launch into the high quality climbing above, stemming and liebacking twin seams in a flake up to a ledge. Mantle the ledge, plug some gear and turn it up for the technical and very fingery boulder problem. From here continue up the pocketed stem box...plugging occasional microcams in horizontals. It would be possible to traverse right onto sweet dreams or left onto the finishing ledge of Flavor of the Day.... doing so reduces the grade a bit and the quality significantly.
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