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Just Putin Around
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
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[Redacted] T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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A Fly in the Ointment T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Acid Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Acid Rock T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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AHR S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Backdoor Slider S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bihedral Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blood Diamond S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crack Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dan's Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Daydreaming T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diamonds and Rust S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dihedral Variation T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Edge of Reality S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Fat Tuesday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Flags of Our Fathers T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flesh Eating Flies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Group Therapy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hesitantly Decisive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Heterohedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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High Hard One S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hold The Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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It's Time For Change T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Just Putin Around T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Left-Handed Tool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Night Moves T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Oh Boy T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pariah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Puff Daddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rhodian Shores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Sands of Iwo Jima S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sun Spot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thumb Tack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tool King T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trick or Treat T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where's Ray? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | for good chunks of this - George Bracksieck, LP |
| Page Views: | 1,480 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Mar 5, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is a micro-adventure route that really isn't recommended for all but those who don't mind funky rock, decisions, and not falling. The line is just what we pieced together for a good ole time.
P1. Climb Sea Breeze, The Minstrel, or Au Natural to the 2 bolt anchor.
P2. Move right onto a bulging section protectable with small cams. There is a wiggling flake here or there on this bit. Pull over without falling, staying over your feet. Move upwards on lower angle terrain with a bulge or two. Be careful not to hook your rope on the dead tree/stump. ~120' up you can get a directional under the small face, and then you can angle down and left to a belay under what looks like buck teeth.
Note, we explored left from the bolted belay but found the features rounded enough to move us rightward. Also, you could "Z" the pitch by traversing over to the tree on the left, but this inverted "L" seemed to portend less drag.
P3. Now this start is probably indicated on p. 99 of Rossiter's excellent 1999 Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon. Avoiding the thin wire crack directly above the belay (which we dubbed the Yanukovych option), we moved slightly left into a better featured crack/groove that felt harder than 5.5. Once on the face, we angled right into a left-facing dihedral. A cruxy move into the dihedral gets your attention. Continue upward on bits of face climbing into a pod on the left and belay.
P4. Here you have some options. The straight-above-the-belay option gets your initial vote but has a precarious-looking block which might teeter out and kill you and/or your belayer if you pulled the wrong way (which we dubbed the Obama option). Traversing rightward, you see the next left-angling dihedral with crusty-looking footwork and crumbly looking edges of the crack (which we dubbed the Putin option). A stopper or two for a directional and additional rightward traversing leads to a more solid-looking bulge solution. Still, you must take care not to fall, given the ledge below the bulge. Clear the bulge, follow a right-leaning line to a ledge on the right, and belay. A #4 Camalot is nice here. There used to be a death-defying, 3-4 foot, guillotine blade here which George most generously cleared.
P5. Now, you move slightly left and aim for the inviting dihedral above. There are still some loose blocks on this pitch. In particular, there is a hanging peninsula of rock in the dihedral (which we dubbed Crimea) which is very difficult to avoid pulling upon. Above, there is a block on the left which seemed okay to stand upon, but avoiding pulling upon it may be best to survive passage. Finish the dihedral and belay.
Walk off down the right side of The Bihedral.
P1. Climb Sea Breeze, The Minstrel, or Au Natural to the 2 bolt anchor.
P2. Move right onto a bulging section protectable with small cams. There is a wiggling flake here or there on this bit. Pull over without falling, staying over your feet. Move upwards on lower angle terrain with a bulge or two. Be careful not to hook your rope on the dead tree/stump. ~120' up you can get a directional under the small face, and then you can angle down and left to a belay under what looks like buck teeth.
Note, we explored left from the bolted belay but found the features rounded enough to move us rightward. Also, you could "Z" the pitch by traversing over to the tree on the left, but this inverted "L" seemed to portend less drag.
P3. Now this start is probably indicated on p. 99 of Rossiter's excellent 1999 Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon. Avoiding the thin wire crack directly above the belay (which we dubbed the Yanukovych option), we moved slightly left into a better featured crack/groove that felt harder than 5.5. Once on the face, we angled right into a left-facing dihedral. A cruxy move into the dihedral gets your attention. Continue upward on bits of face climbing into a pod on the left and belay.
P4. Here you have some options. The straight-above-the-belay option gets your initial vote but has a precarious-looking block which might teeter out and kill you and/or your belayer if you pulled the wrong way (which we dubbed the Obama option). Traversing rightward, you see the next left-angling dihedral with crusty-looking footwork and crumbly looking edges of the crack (which we dubbed the Putin option). A stopper or two for a directional and additional rightward traversing leads to a more solid-looking bulge solution. Still, you must take care not to fall, given the ledge below the bulge. Clear the bulge, follow a right-leaning line to a ledge on the right, and belay. A #4 Camalot is nice here. There used to be a death-defying, 3-4 foot, guillotine blade here which George most generously cleared.
P5. Now, you move slightly left and aim for the inviting dihedral above. There are still some loose blocks on this pitch. In particular, there is a hanging peninsula of rock in the dihedral (which we dubbed Crimea) which is very difficult to avoid pulling upon. Above, there is a block on the left which seemed okay to stand upon, but avoiding pulling upon it may be best to survive passage. Finish the dihedral and belay.
Walk off down the right side of The Bihedral.
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