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Routes in Mount Murchison
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But My Daddy's a Psycho T WI5 |
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Murchison Falls WI4-5 |
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Virtual Reality T WI6 |
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Balfour Wall, The WI2 |
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| Type: | Ice, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Trevor Jones & Tom Whittaker; 1997 |
| Page Views: | 5,284 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | RKM on Mar 5, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
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Description
CLIMB 280m
1st pitch 60m - WI2 and snow
2nd pitch 60m - WI3
3rd pitch 40m - WI4
4th pitch 50m - WI 4+
5th pitch 70m - WI 4+
RAPPEL
1st 60m - bolts, rap anchors are around the corner to the right of the belay anchor. The belay anchor has a propensity to twist ropes when pulling, multiple parties have been stuck beneath the hangfire due to this
2nd 50m - v thread
3rd 60m - bolts
4th 30m - v thread (or down climb on snow)
5th 40m - v thread
**Please use naked threads whenever possible**
Location
The approach to this climb is a full on hike. Even will little snow or a beaten path - it is a long way up to the climb. Makes for a full day.
The final bit of the approach after leaving the treeline when you go up the snow slope to the actual start of the falls is an avalanche run-out (coming down from climber's right) take appropriate precautions for the current conditions.
Park just over 5 miles south of the river crossing (junction with hwy 11) where a drainage comes down and under the road. Walk up this drainage until it is better to move north into the trees. This is a long hike and if fresh snow - could take hours
Others suggested that it could be windy on top. Correct!!
We found gale force and sustained winds when topping out - enough that we could hardly stand up and could not communicate except with sign language. Not a place to be searching around for the rap anchors very long.
The final bit of the approach after leaving the treeline when you go up the snow slope to the actual start of the falls is an avalanche run-out (coming down from climber's right) take appropriate precautions for the current conditions.
Park just over 5 miles south of the river crossing (junction with hwy 11) where a drainage comes down and under the road. Walk up this drainage until it is better to move north into the trees. This is a long hike and if fresh snow - could take hours
Others suggested that it could be windy on top. Correct!!
We found gale force and sustained winds when topping out - enough that we could hardly stand up and could not communicate except with sign language. Not a place to be searching around for the rap anchors very long.
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