Kisses Don't Lie
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Greg Mayer - October 1994 |
Page Views: | 2,991 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Feb 22, 2014 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The hardest, and best, of the Icebox slab climbs, Kisses Don't Lie is an amazing route. This style of climbing will perhaps never be popular, but for those who are into it, or want to challenge themselves, this is a beauty.
P1 (140', 5.12a/b PG13): Climb up the slab passing four bolts with black hangers. The wall steepens and the route follows a vague rib feature of barely usable holds. There is a 15' stretch of climbing where you're just barely on - it feels hard as nails until you let go of your gravitational inhibitions and transcend. Then a rest and then higher another crux (11+) and a run to the anchor, but the whole pitch has multiple 5.10+/5.11- slab sections. 11 bolts which, despite their reputation, I believe are very well-placed for the lead (though the crux bolt is indeed difficult to clip without the draw in place).
P2 (110', 5.11b PG13): Step right from the belay and pull over a roof. Climb an exposed corner passing bolts and gear placements to a great stance on a hollow pillar. Ignore a bolt way up and left, and instead load up the face with gear, step down and move right with commitment. Continue upwards via laser-cut edges and then into a welcomed stemming section up two opposing flakes. Above these, pull the intimidating roof (key #2 Camalot) that caps the pitch and guards the chains. This pitch, though easier, is spectacular and definitely not to be missed.
P1 (140', 5.12a/b PG13): Climb up the slab passing four bolts with black hangers. The wall steepens and the route follows a vague rib feature of barely usable holds. There is a 15' stretch of climbing where you're just barely on - it feels hard as nails until you let go of your gravitational inhibitions and transcend. Then a rest and then higher another crux (11+) and a run to the anchor, but the whole pitch has multiple 5.10+/5.11- slab sections. 11 bolts which, despite their reputation, I believe are very well-placed for the lead (though the crux bolt is indeed difficult to clip without the draw in place).
P2 (110', 5.11b PG13): Step right from the belay and pull over a roof. Climb an exposed corner passing bolts and gear placements to a great stance on a hollow pillar. Ignore a bolt way up and left, and instead load up the face with gear, step down and move right with commitment. Continue upwards via laser-cut edges and then into a welcomed stemming section up two opposing flakes. Above these, pull the intimidating roof (key #2 Camalot) that caps the pitch and guards the chains. This pitch, though easier, is spectacular and definitely not to be missed.
3 Comments