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Wild Kingdom
5.12 R,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
FA: Zack Smith, Josh Gross
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> La Sal Mountains
> Mill Creek
> Lower Mill Creek
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Climbs out the steep and exposed arete/ bulge climbers left of porch feature. This route has some heads up climbing, 2nd pitch is wild.
P1: 5.10 R Same start as "Fox Trot". But continue up into chimney. Finish with a exposed scary traverse left inside chimney to the belay, marginal small nut up and right may help.
P2: 5.12 R Make a couple moves straight up then head out left on cool rail feature. The pitchs boulder problem crux is next. After regaining a cool head climb left via wildly exposed climbing with a large runout to the arete.
P3: 5.10 R Climb right on exposed face climbing traversing above a small roof towards a thin crack. Head up crack then move slightly left for more pro. This pitch is heads up but all there!
Finish via the last pitch of "Fox Trot"
Location
Locate large right facing corner, climb this up into chimney feature passing "Fox Trot" first pitch going out right!
Protection
Standard rack.
5 runners
10 draws
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