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> S Apron
Sparrow
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 26
votes
Routes in South Apron
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Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slab Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | Terry Rollerson, George Loset, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 2,277 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Feb 7, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
If you have done Over the Rainbow this older classic slab route is worth a try. You are guessing correctly that since it was done in 1970 it is sparsely bolted.
P1. Start same as Diedre and Rainbow, where you pass the horizontal crack Over the Rainbow goes straight up the greasy slab, Sparrow goes a bit more to the right and follows the path of least resistance up ramp like right traverse heading for a lonely bolt, clip and head for a small tree about level with the bolted belay of Rainbow on a faint horizontal dyke.
P2. About 40-50' above belay head left toward small trees( if you go up slab it is a run-out 10b variation) cross several overlaps angle back right toward big tree island and left facing corner.
P3. Either go straight up using water pockets, or descend corner( original route) maybe 20' till you can go up obvious crack which peters out to a tricky slippery slab move up to big tree covered ledge.
P4. It can be confusing here which bolted line to follow. If you took the original route below it is the first line of bolts you come to going up the ledge to your left, but maybe hard to spot bolts. The 2nd bolt line is the Delicious Dimples ( 10c) with more newer bolts. If you go all the way to your left you will hit the Over the Rainbow bolts.
P5. Wander up slab passing 2 bolts in like 100', going back and forth following path of least resistance till you see some crescent cracks but belay below on bolt and gear.
P6. Traverse left till you come to a good crack on right facing corner passing the Dimples route, if you find yourself going up a steep slab you may be on Dimples( 10c). Go up this crack, as it peters out go out onto slab on the left, go up slab till you can belay on bolts below a left facing corner. McLane calls this pitch 10a, Bourdon calls it 5.8, I guess I would say it is 5.9.
P7. Follow corner up and go right out onto white slab , comes out near base of Boomstick crack.
P1. Start same as Diedre and Rainbow, where you pass the horizontal crack Over the Rainbow goes straight up the greasy slab, Sparrow goes a bit more to the right and follows the path of least resistance up ramp like right traverse heading for a lonely bolt, clip and head for a small tree about level with the bolted belay of Rainbow on a faint horizontal dyke.
P2. About 40-50' above belay head left toward small trees( if you go up slab it is a run-out 10b variation) cross several overlaps angle back right toward big tree island and left facing corner.
P3. Either go straight up using water pockets, or descend corner( original route) maybe 20' till you can go up obvious crack which peters out to a tricky slippery slab move up to big tree covered ledge.
P4. It can be confusing here which bolted line to follow. If you took the original route below it is the first line of bolts you come to going up the ledge to your left, but maybe hard to spot bolts. The 2nd bolt line is the Delicious Dimples ( 10c) with more newer bolts. If you go all the way to your left you will hit the Over the Rainbow bolts.
P5. Wander up slab passing 2 bolts in like 100', going back and forth following path of least resistance till you see some crescent cracks but belay below on bolt and gear.
P6. Traverse left till you come to a good crack on right facing corner passing the Dimples route, if you find yourself going up a steep slab you may be on Dimples( 10c). Go up this crack, as it peters out go out onto slab on the left, go up slab till you can belay on bolts below a left facing corner. McLane calls this pitch 10a, Bourdon calls it 5.8, I guess I would say it is 5.9.
P7. Follow corner up and go right out onto white slab , comes out near base of Boomstick crack.
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