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Routes in Lost Cause Boulder Area
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Dean's Journey V10 7C+ |
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Bloody Flapper V4 6B |
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Gloria V7 7A+ |
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Lip Sync V3 6A |
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Banana Juice V9 7C |
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Bore, The V0+ 4+ |
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Pussy Route V1 5 |
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Shamu V9 7C |
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Free willy V10 7C+ |
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,402 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Winkler on Jan 20, 2014 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
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Description
Note: My understanding is that the holds to the left (on the Pussy Route) are off limits for Free Willy.
Start with a good right hand in the low pockets and a left sloping crimp. You can start with a right heel hook by your right hand and a left back step (traditional beta), or just toe down on some bad feet. Go left hand to the sloper, right hand to the tooth and continue up and eventually right on pretty decent crimps. The finish can be done one of two ways: go left hand to the bad crimp, hike a high right foot and dyno to the lip with your right hand, or you can use the bad 1/4" sloping crimp with your right as an intermediate before going to the lip. Not really sure which one is easier, but I felt the intermediate was more consistent.
Start with a good right hand in the low pockets and a left sloping crimp. You can start with a right heel hook by your right hand and a left back step (traditional beta), or just toe down on some bad feet. Go left hand to the sloper, right hand to the tooth and continue up and eventually right on pretty decent crimps. The finish can be done one of two ways: go left hand to the bad crimp, hike a high right foot and dyno to the lip with your right hand, or you can use the bad 1/4" sloping crimp with your right as an intermediate before going to the lip. Not really sure which one is easier, but I felt the intermediate was more consistent.
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