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Uncle Ho (CLOSED)

5.10b, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 83 votes
FA: Duc Ly, 2013
California > Inland Empire > Riverside Area > Riverside Quarry > (g) Slander Sector

Description

Starts a little chossy but gets better and continues up steep and varied terrain. If you find yourself on loose rock, you probably went the wrong way.

Location

Right of All Washed Up and left of Babyface

Protection

14 bolts to double chain draw anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hayley on the overhanging face of Uncle Ho
[Hide Photo] Hayley on the overhanging face of Uncle Ho
Ted on Uncle Ho. Photo by Nicholas Rondilone
[Hide Photo] Ted on Uncle Ho. Photo by Nicholas Rondilone
Jonny cleaning up
[Hide Photo] Jonny cleaning up

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ian McG
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Fun route, with varied and sustained movement. With some traffic, this route will no doubt clean up nicely- potentially rivaling the ever popular trundle trophy and flexercise as quality area warmups. Steep face climbing, mantels, overhanging bulges, and even bomber hand jam! Some sections may be spicy for somebody leading at the grade. Enjoy, but watch for loose bits on this new route. Jan 21, 2014
Jan Tarculas
San Diego, Ca
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] after doing this route multiple times, I think it goes at 10a. I feel like there is only really 1 distinct crux on this route and it doesn't go any harder than moves on whammy or par up with crux move on flexercise. If you want to count in the length of the route along with the pump, the route has enough no hands rest before any real "10a" climbing begins.

oh and the hand jam! don't miss out on the hand jam! Feb 6, 2014
somillionaire Viradia
Los Angeles, California
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Once you know where to go this thing isnt that difficult, I think around 10b. I think other climbs like flexercise and wanderstuff are much more cruiser than this though and theyre rated higher. This is somewhat sustained and steep. For the roof, dont go left onto the face from the get go cause those moves are definitely not in the 10 range :0. Still some loose stuff too, especially higher up. Apr 5, 2014
janjan
redlands, ca
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] It was made after the most recent edition of the guide book, cleaned up just recently this year Benjamin. Great route, cleaning up nicely but best to belay wells to the climber's right to avoid falling pieces. The crux is definitely pumpy but not more than 10a. Apr 18, 2014
Billy Shin
Inglewood, ca
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I feel like none of the moves are harder than V1, but its sustained nature gives it the 10b rating. 14 bolts of v1! Like it! It's would be awesome training route to lap. Dec 5, 2015
NathanS
Pomona Ca
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] One of the bolts are a little loose . I tried to tighten it the best I could and next time I go out ill bring the proper tool with me. Please be safe! Dec 19, 2016
[Hide Comment] A large number of the holds on this route seem to be artificial (chipped), I would say at least 30%. I don't know if it was made that way, or if people have edited it recently, but keep that in mind. If that doesn't bother you, go for it. I just thought I would give people a heads up. Feb 26, 2018
Ryan Rittenhouse
San Bernardino, Ca
 
[Hide Comment] CLOSED. That huge rock fall from 02/20/24 destroyed half the route. After about the 8th bolt the route is all gone and there are a number of death blocks. DO NOT CLIMB. Left an orange glove tied to first bolt. Routes to the right and left of uncle Ho are most likely in similar condition. Be safe.
Video of rock fall from park security camera.
m.youtube.com/watch?v=x8Fd8… May 28, 2024